Revolutions in Wine

Although wine seems somehow fixed, even staid, the facts tell a different story. The past few decades have seen two revolutions that have permanently rearranged the landscape on both sides of the aisle, as it were.From the wine-producing side, the great revolution was the rise and current preeminence of estate bottling, where the grower makes wine only from his or her own grapes and sells it under his or her own label. Prior to the 1960s, estate bottling was a rarity everywhere in the world. Today, estate bottling is commonplace.On the consumer side, the upheaval is the worldwide democratization of wine. Where once wine was unapologetically elitist, today all are welcome — indeed, aggressively pursued. Everything about wine — the way it’s labeled, how it’s distributed, and, not least, how it’s talked and written about — has been profoundly altered by democratization.The paradox is that these two revolutions are almost, but not quite, mutually antagonistic. Estate bottling, by its very definition, is a dinner party with limited seating.This, in turn, conflicts with the premise of democratization. Encouraged to participate, consumers expect to find what they’re looking for with no more difficulty than in buying any other household item.The two wines to follow are exclusive in the extreme — but not exclusionary. You just have to know about them. Now you do: Get them while you can.Pinot d’Alsace 2005, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht — One of Alsace’s most sought-after producers, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht is almost a cult estate. Unusually, it’s quite large for such a status, with about 100 acres of vineyards planted mostly to riesling, gewürztraminer, and pinot gris.Collectively, Zind-Humbrecht wines are often massive, with intense, concentrated fruit, the effect of which is often further magnified by the presence of varying levels of residual sugar. The style is not for everybody, but there’s no disputing the superb quality.Pinot d’Alsace is the secret deal of this great estate. A vague name employed by a number of Alsatian producers for white wine blends, Pinot d’Alsace is today what used to be called Edelswicker, or “noble blend.” The components vary from grower to grower.For Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, their 2005 Pinot d’Alsace is composed of two white grapes: the little-known auxerrois (70%) and pinot blanc (30%). Auxerrois is a white grape created from the ancient crossing of pinot noir and an obscure white variety called gouais blanc. There are only about 500 acres of auxerrois grown anywhere in the world, most of it in Alsace.Domaine Zind-Humbrecht’s 2005 Pinot d’Alsace comes from five acres of vines in two of the estate’s vineyards, Herrenweg and Rotenberg. Few white wines deserve the approbation “luscious.” But this one earns it, what with its dense texture, strong gusts of lemon zest, orange blossom, and a quality that can only be described as lemon meringue. The finish has an invigorating bitterness, as well as a very slight edge of (appealing) sweetness.This is a stunning, characterful white wine like no other that will pair with all sorts of seafood and poultry. The New York area received 110 cases, according to the importer. $21.95. (Note to retailers: The distributor is Martin Scott Wines Ltd.)Dolcetto d’Alba “San Lorenzo” 2006, Azienda Agricola Brezza — Brezza, a Piedmontese family winery, is largely unknown in New York. Quite frankly, it has not been a star performer until recently.Even though the Brezza family has long owned some of the choicest vineyards in the Barolo zone — specifically parcels of the Cannubi vineyard, which the locals consider Barolo’s single greatest site — the winemaking was lackluster. Today, with the son, Enzo, now in charge of the winemaking, the improvement in Brezza wines is akin to a once badly varnished painting brought back to luminosity by careful cleaning.Dolcetto d’Alba “San Lorenzo” 2006 is a single-vineyard bottling. But that vineyard — a parcel, really — isn’t just any old spot. San Lorenzo is a subplot in that great Cannubi vineyard. (A wine in that zone can only be called Barolo if it’s made entirely from the nebbiolo grape.) I know of no other dolcetto — a humble red grape — grown in such an exalted location. San Lorenzo is a 3.58-acre parcel of dolcetto.It’s worth noting that Brezza uses a so-called “glass cork” developed by Alcoa, called Vino-Lok, for this wine. You twist off the plastic capsule covering the stopper and then lift up the glass stopper. An O-ring attached to a glass insert creates the actual seal. It precludes any possibility of cork taint.This is very great Dolcetto, one of the best you’ll taste. Intense yet supple, with Dolcetto’s signature whiff of wild cherries and almonds, it also offers a degree of character rare in such a “simple” wine, largely thanks to the distinction of its site. Just 50 cases of this wine came into New York. $19.95 (Note to retailers: The distributor is Angels’ Share Wines.)

Revolutions in Wine

Revolutions in Wine

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