Roman Chocolate Cookies
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

Adapted from “A Baker’s Odyssey” by Greg Patent
Yield: 36 cookies
Dough:
2 cups plus 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 cup sifted unsweetened cocoa powder
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
2 large eggs
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup whole milk
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup walnuts, chopped medium-fine
*1 cup mini semisweet chocolate chips
Icing:
1 1/4 cups confectioners’ sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons whole milk, plus more if needed
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Colored or chocolate sprinkles
1. To make the dough, whisk together the flour, cocoa, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice in a medium bowl.
2. In another medium bowl, beat the eggs with an electric mixer on medium speed for about 1 minute, until frothy. Gradually add the sugar and beat until the eggs thicken slightly and become very pale in color, about 2–3 minutes more.
While beating, slowly drizzle in the olive oil.
3. On low speed, beat in the milk and vanilla extract. With a wooden spoon, add the flour mixture in 2 installments, stirring until smooth after each.
4. Stir in the walnuts and chocolate chips (or dried cherries). The dough will be soft and slightly sticky.
5. Cover the bowl loosely with a kitchen towel and let the dough rest for 20–30 minutes.
6. Adjust an oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 350 F. Line two heavy 17-by-14-inch cookie sheets with silicone baking pan liners or cooking parchment. (I lined mine with aluminum foil and then greased with butter, and the recipe turned out fine.)
7. To shape the cookies, roll rounded teaspoonfuls of dough between your palms into smooth balls measuring about 1 inch in diameter. (The oil in the dough will keep the dough from sticking to your hands.) Set the balls about 2 inches apart on the prepared sheets, 18 cookies to a sheet.
8. Bake one sheet at a time until the cookies smell fragrant and their tops feel dry and have numerous cracks, 10 to 12 minutes. They will almost double in size. Do not over-bake — the cookies should be tender, not dry.
9. Cool the cookies on the cookie sheets for 3–5 minutes then transfer them with a wide spatula to wire cooling racks to cool completely.
10. To make the icing, combine the confectioners’ sugar, butter, milk and vanilla in a small bowl, and beat with a hand-held electric mixer until smooth and thick, the consistency of heavy cream. If necessary, beat in more milk by droplets.
11. One at a time, dip the tops of 5 or 6 cooled cookies in the icing, then set them upright on the cooling rack and dust them immediately with sprinkles. Repeat with the remaining cookies.
12. Store the cookies in an airtight container at room temperature for 3–4 days. To freeze, place cookies on a parchment or foil-lined baking sheet and freeze until solid, then transfer to heavy-duty re-sealable plastic bags and freeze for up to 2 weeks. Thaw cookies completely in their wrapping.
*Variation: Substitute 1 cup chopped dried cherries or 1 cup finely diced citron for the chocolate chips.