Root 101
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

Once upon a time in a tiny Grecian village there lived a huge family with voracious appetites. After an indulgent dinner of crushed olive couscous with lemon-flavored grape leaves and pungent garlic dip, they wrapped a small piece of white bread around a slice of ginger and slept without any disturbance into the night. As time passed, they began a tradition of adding ginger directly into their bread dough and gingerbread was born. Or so the story goes.
Ginger’s exact origin is unclear. Most historians say it came from India or China, but now you can find the tree-like root cropping up in every form: syrups, yogurt, ice cream, even Altoids.
In India, unpeeled fresh ginger root starts off many curry dishes. Pickled ginger accompanies sushi, and it’s good with any cold fish or meat. Japanese, Korean, and Chinese cooks use it to accent sauces, glazes, and soups. And ginger’s sweet-sharp flavor is a must in the peanut sauce served with Thai-style chicken satay.
At Beso, a Latin fusion restaurant in Brooklyn, chef Carlo Zuccarello serves duck empanadas with a ginger guava sauce. The coconut-lime ceviche at Beso is also spiked with ginger.
“You mostly see ginger prevalent in Peruvian cooking because of the migration of the Japanese to Peru,” Mr. Zuccarello said. “It’s a commingling of flavors unusual anywhere else in South America.”
To get the best flavor, home cooks should use powdered ginger in baked goods and use it sliced, grated, or – most pungent of all – minced in stir-fries and sauces. Try peeling fresh ginger with a soup spoon to get around the bumps more easily. Peel the skin from the root and gently peel the skin beneath. The “meat” closest to the root holds the most flavor.
When selecting ginger root, choose full-bodied firm roots with a spicy scent and smooth skin. The skin should be supple, not cracked or withered. It can be stored tightly wrapped in plastic wrap in the refrigerator for two to three weeks. It can also be placed in a jar of sherry and refrigerated for three to six months.
In these last days of chilly weather, add ginger to hot tea. This spring, try some ginger iced tea with brown sugar and a slice of lime.
Ginger Garlic Hummus
3 tablespoons chopped ginger
3 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 15.5 oz. can of garbanzo beans (about 2 cups)
1/4 cup tahini
3 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon chili sauce
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon water
1/4 cup cilantro 1 green onion chopped
Combine all ingredients except cilantro and green onions in food processor and puree. Add cilantro and green onions and mix. Serve with slices of cucumber, red pepper, celery, toasted pita, and blue-corn chips.