A Royal Feast

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

Elvis Presley had an appetite, well, fit for a king.

Legend has it that he enjoyed gravy-covered country-fried steak and buttermilk biscuits, that he chased cheeseburgers with chocolate malts, and that he could devour entire pans of brownies in just one sitting — and these tales, according to one of Elvis’s cousins, Edie Hand, are “all true.”

In an interview with The New York Sun, Ms. Hand, 56, recalled July Fourth family gatherings in northwest Alabama, where the singer would hover in the kitchen waiting for hush puppy breads to come out of the fryer and roast beef to exit the oven.

And he ate like this around the clock, Ms. Hand, a co-author of “The Presley Family and Friends Cookbook” (Cumberland House, 1998), said. “Elvis was up at all hours, so they’d be baking cakes at 1 in the morning,” she said, referring to the performer’s staff. “Whatever his heart desired, that’s what he got.”

Of all his meals, the fried peanut-butter-and-banana sandwich, prepared for him thousands of times by his trusted cook Mary Jenkins Langston, is most closely associated with the “King of Rock ‘n’ Roll.” He supposedly ate these sandwiches by the dozen, and even flew to Denver, having heard the Colorado Mine Company restaurant made a mean peanut butter, jelly, and bacon — a pound of bacon, that is — sandwich, called the Fools’ Gold Loaf.

A spokesperson at Elvis’s Memphis estate, Graceland, Rhoda Lindsey, said, each year nearly 120,000 people who visit the mansion eat the carbohydrate-heavy concoction there.

At Graceland, the menu item includes mashed banana, peanut butter and a couple slabs of bacon, all wedged between two large slices of white bread. It’s fried in butter, and topped with grape jelly.

“Heartbreak Hotel indeed,” a Manhattan nutritionist, Marissa Lippert, said, estimating that the sandwich contains between 800 and 1,100 calories, depending on the amount of bacon and butter used. If Elvis ate 12 of those sandwiches a day, this caloric intake could have sustained as many as 10 men his size.

For New Yorkers whose mouths are actually watering right now, the Greenwich Village-based Peanut Butter & Company, pays homage to the King by serving up its own version of the famed sandwich (sans jelly, but with bacon). “We get tourists from Japan, France, and Germany coming through the door,” the restaurant’s founder, Lee Zalben, said. “They can’t speak English but they can say, ‘Elvis,’ and point to their stomach.”

Elvis’s last meal before he died at age 42 on August 16, 1977, was fitting, given his life of culinary excesses. According to the book “Last Suppers” (Lebhar-Friedman, 1999) by James Dickerson, it consisted of four scoops of ice cream, and six chocolate-chip cookies.


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