Small Plates

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

In Bleecker and Carmine streets, in a neighborhood packed with bustling, casually convivial eateries, cool, calm Citron is nothing like its neighboring restaurants. The restaurant has a softly lit, pale-green decor, with minimalist, abstract artwork on the walls by Chef Gavin Citron’s grand mother, WPA artist Minna Citron. There are no appetizers or entrees on the menu; instead there are four categories: Vegetables, Shellfish & Seafood, Cheese, and Poultry, Meat & Game. A glance at the prices, ranging from $6 to $18 throughout the menu, confirms that Mr. Citron, who has cooked at Aleutia, Aja, and Celadon, would prefer that diners order plates in “flights,” or rounds, rather than courses.


This is a fun way to taste a bunch of different dishes with friends who don’t mind sharing, but be warned: The portions, as our waitress informed us, are typically four to five ounces, “so they won’t fill you up if you order a few.” That was a nice way of telling us we’d be spending quite a bit of money if we wanted to feel full at the end of our meal. Our waitress that night also pointed out a box on the menu that explained the chef’s philosophy: “Each dish is designed to be complemented by an accompanying beverage. Please ask our staff to assist you in selecting a drink for each course or select your own combinations from our extensive wines, beers, and sakes.” A choice of three beverages paired with as many dishes costs $30; for four add $6. I opted to order my own wine instead.


From among the “Vegetables” we ordered the salad of avocado, roasted peppers, preserved lemon and pine nut vinaigrette ($10), a beautiful little nest of greens that was strangely devoid of much avocado but nonetheless fresh and tasty. A wild mushroom terrine with toasted pumpkin seeds ($10) was requisitely earthy but overwhelmed by truffle jus. The salad of “gathered field greens” and fragrant herbs ($6), on the other hand, was simple and good, tossed with a piquant tamarind vinaigrette.


“Cheese” dishes included one of the most interesting dishes on the menu: “Pierre Robert with Dippy Egg,” roasted salmon, and prosciutto ($12). The combination of buttery triple creme cheese, poached egg, savory rosemary-basted salmon, and silky sweet prosciutto was sublime. I’d hoped for the same balance of textures in another salad, this one of ruby-red and golden beets with Monte Enebro, a rich, semi soft farmhouse goat cheese from Spain, but the cheese trumped the delicately dressed beets for attention ($7).


“Shellfish & Seafood” selections included a special summer roll stuffed with crab and lobster ($18), which was fresh, crunchy, and sweet. Grilled octopus with arugula tossed with oven-roasted tomatoes and aged balsamic vinegar ($15) was simply okay, however; the octopus was tender but lacked any flavor apart from the vinegar. The same could be said of the diver sea scallops with golden delicious apples ($16), its flavor obscured by a heady smoked-bacon vinaigrette. A tiny piece of skillet-seared skate, topped with a brown butter dressing ($12), had been browned to a dried-out crisp.


“Poultry, Meat & Game” plates were far better across the board. Roasted duck with an Asian oyster-chestnut dressing and smoked adobo peanut sauce ($16) was tender but meaty, and beautifully balanced. A roasted baby chicken came exactly as billed, crisp and delicious, with truffle-whipped potatoes and mushroom gravy($15). Grilled hanger steak ($16) was cooked a perfect medium rare and drizzled with a saffron-lobster reduction that tasted of neither, but the apple-wood smoked double lamb chops ($18) were coated with a pistachio crust whose nutty flavor was unmistakable.


Desserts (all $7) were, for the most part, lackluster. Maple walnut “French Toast” with roasted figs and Vermont blue cheese was excellent, but didn’t deliver on the promise of red chilies to round out the sweet and savory elements on the plate. A Tahitian vanilla and honey poached Bosc pear was dark and mealy, and nothing to write home about, though the green apple-parsley sorbet alongside it certainly gave me pause. The same could be said of the lackluster seasonal fruit salad that comes with a dollup of delicious sorbet made with fresh herbs and cracked black pepper.


On the way out one of our dining companions quipped that he was headed next door to Trattoria Spaghetto for the rest of dinner. Though I cringed at the notion I understood what he meant. It takes a lot of plates – and money – at Citron to share the chef’s vision of what constitutes a meal in full.


Citron, 228 Bleecker St., 212-924-9717.


The New York Sun

© 2025 The New York Sun Company, LLC. All rights reserved.

Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The material on this site is protected by copyright law and may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used.

The New York Sun

Sign in or  Create a free account

or
By continuing you agree to our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use