Sour Grapes Hits Bordeaux
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PARIS — The world’s most influential wine critic, Robert Parker, has caused consternation in Bordeaux after giving its 2007 vintage low marks and telling buyers to stay away unless châteaux owners cut their prices.
“There is unquestionably little need to buy these wines as futures, unless dramatic price reductions occur. I don’t expect that to happen,” Mr. Parker wrote in his annual vintage review, “2007 Bordeaux: Who Will Buy Them and at What Price?”
The man called the “pope of the vineyards” because of the power he wields over a wine’s popularity and value cast his judgment after tasting samples of the latest vintage.
While he said some of the wines were “seductive, and fruit-forward,” many were “thin and green” and of poor quality. Only three were given the maximum 100-point score — all of them whites in a town known for its reds. Of Bordeaux’s top five, first-growth wines, the highest mark was 94, with Château Margaux earning a 92-94, Château Haut-Brion a 91-94, and Château Mouton-Rothschild a 90-94.
The low notes shocked some wine experts.
“Parker is a good taster, and I have great respect for him but some of these scores are really unjust,” a Bordeaux wine broker, Benoit Ricaud Dussarget, said in reaction to the 2007 report.
“A score in the 70s for a good Bordeaux is crazy,” he said. “He has assassinated some of the wines.”
A château with a poor Parker score can expect a significant drop in demand.
[Mr. Parker’s low marks for the ’07 vintage would likely have resounding effects on the high-end wine market in New York City, especially for Bordeaux futures sales, according to local wine sellers.
The executive vice president of Sherry-Lehmann on Park Avenue, Chris Adams, who recently visited Bordeaux, said that a weak dollar, high production prices, and a burgeoning wine market in Asia will likely add up to high prices and an unappealing vintage for collectors here.
Mr. Parker’s “marks I thought were right on,” he said. “The wines are going to be delicious to drink right away,” he said. “But it is a vintage that is not going to be a good one for collectors if the wines are not priced right.”
Mr. Adams said Sherry-Lehman will likely offer significantly fewer bottles of 2007 Bordeaux than in previous years, and the company will seek out offerings that are priced right for its consumers.
The co-owner of the wine store Pour on the Upper West Side, H. Tres Meyer, said that Mr. Parker has entirely too much influence on the wine industry. “Let the public have its say about the 2007 vintage, because for one person to have such sway doesn’t do the wine consumer justice.”
But given Mr. Parker’s renown, Mr. Meyer surmised that the critic’s assessment would have a negative impact on sales. “That said, if you put a good-value Bordeaux on the shelf — and by good value, I mean $17 to $40 — people are going to buy it, even if it is a 2007 vintage,” he said.]