In recent years, one of the city’s best steakhouses – and best-kept secrets – has been in Astoria, Queens: Christos Hasapa-Taverna. As the name implies, Christos is Greek, and as a result many people have mentally filed it as “another one of those Greek joints in Astoria.” Savvy diners, however, have known about Christos’s world-class steaks.

So there was some consternation when Christos closed last August for a lengthy renovation and a change of ownership. The restaurant reopened about a month ago, and the most obvious change is that it is now called Christos Steakhouse – a sign that the new owners are playing to the venue’s strengths. The news is largely good: Most of the changes are for the better, and most of the best aspects of the old Christos have been retained.

The biggest change is in the main dining room, which used to resemble a rustic Greek taverna. That sense of country charm is now gone, replaced by tasteful if somewhat nondescript treatment – pleasant enough, and nothing to complain about, although it lacks the homespun grace of the previous version.

As for the menu, many of the old favorites are still available, including the wonderful assortment of Greek spreads – taramosalata, tzatziki, and roasted eggplant – served with grilled pita bread ($12), and the grilled octopus with mixed greens and a light vinaigrette ($14), both of which make excellent starters.

But the new owners have upped the ante by bringing in Mina Newman – formerly of such standout eateries as Layla, Dylan’s Prime, and Avra – as a consulting chef. Her influence is felt in selections like phyllo-wrapped oysters ($12). It’s an ingenious pairing, and the accompanying white wine caper sauce makes it the best single dish I’ve sampled so far this year.

But enough preliminaries – you want to hear about the steaks. Happily, they’re even better than before. Christos always used USDA prime beef, but now it is also dry-aging it for 21 days. The results are apparent in the distinctive mineral tang that now accentuates a steak’s beefy flavor, whether you order the strip ($28), the rib eye ($30), the T-bone ($32), or the massive porterhouse ($67 for a 48-ouncer that serves two, or $88 for a whopping 63-ouncer that serves three).

One new touch: Sauces – bearnaise, red wine shallot, or basic steakhouse – are available on the side. They’re neither memorable nor necessary; stick with the unadorned meat.

Here’s something that hasn’t changed: As you enter the restaurant, you’ll see a huge display of raw steaks on your left. This isn’t just for show – it’s Christos’s in-house butcher shop, where you can purchase the same meat used in the restaurant. Prices are $13 a pound for strip steaks, $14 a pound for rib eyes, and $20 a pound for T-bones and porterhouses – very reasonable for dry-aged prime.

While my home broiler can’t reach 1,200 degrees like the one Christos uses, the porterhouse I recently took home and cooked in my own kitchen was nearly as good as the one I had at the restaurant. So the reopening of Christos is cause for a double celebration – the return of a great restaurant, and a great butcher shop to boot.

Christos Steakhouse, 41-08 23rd Ave. at 41st Street, Astoria, Queens, 718-777-8400.