Summer Wines Revisited

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

If you can’t remember all of the wines brought to your attention in this column, you’re in good company: I can’t either. This is why – let’s not be coy about it – a cheat sheet is a wonderful thing.


Never is this more true than before Labor Day weekend. You want good, different, inexpensive bottles to serve to a gaggle of wine-savvy friends, relatives, and hangerson. But you don’t want to be running all over town searching for just one special wine.


So what follows is a handy, concise list of wines that have been recommended in this space during the past few months. Since it’s summer, I’ve emphasized the whites. After all, we’ll have all winter to work on the reds.


All of the following are currently available, so a good wine shop should have at least several of them, which makes for one-stop shopping. Try merchants such as Chambers Street Wines, PJ Wine, Martin Brothers Wines & Spirits, New York Wine Exchange, Sherry-Lehmann, Zachys, Morrell & Co., Garnet, and Astor Wines, among many others.


HERE’S THE DEAL


White Wines


GEWURZTRAMINER 2002, TRIMBACH A bargain bottling in really high-end gewurz. The story on this wine is that in the 2002 vintage, Trimbach did not create a separate bottling of their more expensive grand cru gewurztraminer. Instead, they added those choice grapes to this regular bottling. This is an insider’s deal and a real steal at $14.95. (Zachys, Sherry-Lehmann, Garnet, Astor, Martin Brothers, NY Wine Exchange, and others.)


DR. L RIESLING 2004, LOOSEN BROS. This is unquestionably the great riesling deal of the summer. Ernst Loosen, one of Germany’s best winegrowers, creates Dr. L. Crafted from purchased wine from the Mosel, Dr. L is really a fine Mosel riesling selling at a bargain price. Just off dry with the barest edge of sweetness, this displays the mineral taste and scent that sets Mosel riesling apart. And kept pristine with a highly desirable screwcap. $9.95. (Zachys, Sherry-Lehmann, Astor, Beacon.)


MUSCADET “CLOS DES BRIORDS” VIEILLES VIGNES 2004, DOMAINE DE LA PEPIERE As close to a “cult” muscadet as you’re going to get. Intense, minerally, bonedry, and a galaxy apart from the usual thin, insipid muscadets. $12.99. (Chambers Street Wines.)


CHATEAU HAUT RIAN “DRY WHITE BORDEAUX” 2004 Quite possibly the bargain white of the summer. A blend of semillon (65%) and sauvignon blanc (35%) from old vines, this is eye-openingly good. You’ll find a luscious texture, no oakiness, and the scent and taste of herbs and ripe lemon, along with fruits like peach and apricot. A bargain at $8.49 a bottle. (Chambers Street Wines.)


RIFF PINOT GRIGIO 2004 A dry white with a surprising mineral savor, this is pinot grigio with real character. Created from purchased wine and fruit by the great Italian white wine producer Alois Lageder, Riff pinot grigio is markedly superior to any other pinot grigio I’ve had at its price – and often higher. (Union Square Wine and Spirits.)


MULDERBOSCH SAUVIGNON BLANC “STELLENBOSCH” 2004 South Africa’s Mulderbosch winery long ago surmounted the “I never knew South Africa made such good wine” category. Its sauvignon blanc is now ranked among the world’s best. Bright, crisp, intense and utterly pure – very much in the New Zealand style – this is a terrific sauvignon blanc. $19.95. (PJ Wine, Garnet, Morrell, Astor, NY Wine Exchange, and others.)


SAVENNIERES “CLOS DU PAPILLON” 2001, DOMAINE DES BAUMARD This is – dare I say it? – a connoisseur’s wine. Made entirely from chenin blanc from a standout single vineyard (Clos du Papillon), one of the Loire Valley’s great districts, this is a dry white wine of singular flavors such as straw, herbs, minerals, and a distinct touch of lime. It has uncommon breed and is meant to accompany food, especially simply prepared fish or cheeses such as chevre, both fresh and aged. $28 with a street price as low as $21.95. (Zachys, PJ Wine.)


SAUVIGNON GRIS “VALLE DEL MAIPO” 2004, COUSINO-MACUL A rare white grape related, but not identical to, sauvignon blanc. This dry white from the venerable Chilean estate Cousino-Macul is dense, succulent, oak-free white wine with a strong whiff of hay, wildflowers, and grapefruit. It’s really lovely. $9.99. (Chambers Street Wines.)


MOSCATO D’ASTI 2004, SARACCO A sunset sipper supreme. My favorite Moscato d’Asti of them all, this is the sort of wine you can keep sipping and returning to all day long. What’s more, it’s extremely low in alcohol at less than 6%. I’ve never met anyone who didn’t love this wine. $14.95. (Sherry-Lehmann, PJ Wine.)


Red Wines


CARPANO PUNT E MES VERMOUTH Few things are better as an aperitif that a great red vermouth. This is it. Punt e Mes is, hands down, the finest red vermouth I know, filled with an intensity and savor absent from other vermouths. Try it straight on the rocks with a twist of lemon for the full experience. $15.95 for a 750-milliliter bottle; $20 for a one-liter bottle. (Sherry-Lehmann, Garnet, NY Wine Exchange, Vino.)


GOATS DO ROAM IN VILLAGES 2004, FAIRVIEW A delicious red wine blend from South Africa’s Fairview winery, this proprietary red wine is a crowd pleaser. (Note that there’s also a less-good, slightly less expensive, Goats Do Roam, without the “In Villages” designation.) If it were just an amusing label – which it is – then it wouldn’t merit a mention. But this blend of syrah, cinsault, grenache, carignan, and South Africa’s own red grape called pinotage (a cross of pinot noir and cinsault created in South Africa in 1925) delivers rich color, equally rich fruit, no apparent oak, and an attractive spiciness. It’s a bargain at $10.95. (Martin Brothers, Zachys, Sherry-Lehmann.)


VIN DE PAYS DE VAUCLUSE 2003, DOMAINE DE L’AMEILLAUD This is one of those red wines that you don’t want to taste blind because you’ll make a fool of yourself saying how good and expensive it must be. It is good – very good, in fact – but it’s far from expensive. Really, it’s dirt (or rather, terroir) cheap. A blend of grenache (60%), syrah (20%), and carignan (20%) from the Rhone Valley, this red is smooth down the gullet and ideal for grilled meats, pates, and salami and sausages of all kinds.$9.95 with a street price as low as $7.95. (Sherry-Lehmann, Chelsea Wine Vault.)


The New York Sun

© 2025 The New York Sun Company, LLC. All rights reserved.

Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The material on this site is protected by copyright law and may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used.

The New York Sun

Sign in or  Create a free account

or
By continuing you agree to our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use