Sweetly Savory
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

It always seemed like my grandmother was crazy when she sprinkled salt on watermelon, but given the savory melon dishes that New York chefs are turning out this summer, it seems she was on to something.
In the dining room of the lounge-y subterranean Mediterranean boite, Ludo (42 E. 1st St., between First and Second avenues, 212-777-5617), Israeli-born executive chef Einat Admony is serving two savory melon dishes. A simple feta and watermelon salad ($9) pairs a thick slab of the hearty cheese with fresh greens and a nice slice of melon, a combination inspired by Israeli friends who eat slices of the fruit and cheese on the beach. The second is her creative riff on the classic combination of cantaloupe wrapped in prosciutto. In Ms. Admony’s version, frozen cantaloupe sorbet is breaded with panko (Japanese bread crumbs), flash-fried for the added contrast of hot and cold, and wrapped in meltingly rich, salty slices of prosciutto ($8).
As members of the Cucurbitaceae family, watermelon and cantaloupe are related to squash, pumpkin, and other plants that also grow on vines on the ground. So while it may seem like a strange leap from sweet to savory, it makes sense to use melon where you might otherwise use cucumber or tomato, especially in Mexican food. At Rosa Mexicano (61 Columbus Ave. at 62nd Street, 212-977-7700), chef Roberto Santibanez blends tomato, cucumber, and watermelon into a beautifully balanced sweet-and-savory watermelon gazpacho ($9). It’s smooth enough to drink, but he’ll let you eat it with a spoon: He serves it in a bowl, topped with a spicy pico de gallo made with yellow peppers and yellow watermelon (when available), or a cucumber sorbet that adds additional sweetness and punch as it melts.
Zocalo chef Julian Medina (174 E. 82nd St., between Lexington and Third avenues, 212-717-7772) dices cantaloupe into his caramelized seared-scallop ceviche with lime and avocado and chile de arbol citrus sauce ($13). Mr. Medina likes to use melon because you can add citrus juices (a basic component of ceviche) without ruining its flavor and texture. He also adds the juice from the melon to the marinade.
Watermelon is an ingredient in the popular cocktails at Employees Only (510 Hudson St. at Christopher Street, 212-242-3021). But it’s a well-kept secret that the joint also has an extensive food menu, including a very special swordfish carpaccio that gets its kick from pickled watermelon rind, a preserve of Southern origin that chef Jeremy Spector adapts for his own uses as a condiment. Riingo chef Johan Svensson (205 E. 45th St., between Second and Third avenues, 212-867-4200) also pickles watermelon for use as a foil with foie gras spring rolls, but he macerates the flesh instead of the rind in the juice from pickled ginger before grilling it.
Cantaloupe is a guest star at Geisha (33 E. 61st St., between Madison and Park avenues, 212-813-1112), where chef Michael Vernon pairs French Cavaillon melon with sake granita and a little grapefruit juice to make a cold summer soup. He garnishes it with diced watermelon, honeydew, cantaloupe, and micro Thai basil, that can be served as either dessert, starter, or intermezzo – a combination that he likes because melon has similar characteristics to the Japanese rice wine.
On the summer menu at John Villa’s dominic (349 Greenwich St. at Worth Street, 212-343-0700), the chef offers a special risotto: tender, but not mushy, creamy with Gorgonzola, but not at all heavy. He tops it with spheres of cantaloupe that cut the richness of the cheese and add a refreshing touch, then drizzles the risotto with a rich amarone reduction that marries well with the fruit. I think my grandmother really would have liked it.