
Paying Homage to the Fox and the Hedgehog of Cabaret
By WILL FRIEDWALD
|This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

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If the Loire Valley only had its lovely vistas, byways, and chateaux, it would be blessed enough. But the region, halfway between Paris and Bordeaux, also has white, red, and sparkling wines of great variety and easy quaffing. The only problem is that, due to a myriad of small growers and confusing appellations, the Loire’s best values can be hard to pinpoint. For expert advice in buying and enjoying Loire wines, my advice is to head to Chambers Street Wines in TriBeCa, the city’s reigning specialist in this region. There, under the high ceilings of a former firehouse, you’ll find more than 60 different Loire wines. Each has been hand-picked by David Lillie, the shop’s coproprietor. Mr. Lillie, a dour-looking man of 55, doesn’t say much – until the topic turns to his favorite wines. The man is a Loire freak.

By WILL FRIEDWALD
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By SEBASTIAN DOGGART
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By THE NEW YORK SUN
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By THE NEW YORK SUN
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By LAWRENCE KUDLOW
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By JENNIFER DOHERTY
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By A.R. HOFFMAN
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By BENNY AVNI
|If the Loire Valley only had its lovely vistas, byways, and chateaux, it would be blessed enough. But the region, halfway between Paris and Bordeaux, also has white, red, and sparkling wines of great variety and easy quaffing. The only problem is that, due to a myriad of small growers and confusing appellations, the Loire’s best values can be hard to pinpoint. For expert advice in buying and enjoying Loire wines, my advice is to head to Chambers Street Wines in TriBeCa, the city’s reigning specialist in this region. There, under the high ceilings of a former firehouse, you’ll find more than 60 different Loire wines. Each has been hand-picked by David Lillie, the shop’s coproprietor. Mr. Lillie, a dour-looking man of 55, doesn’t say much – until the topic turns to his favorite wines. The man is a Loire freak.
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