Tropical Treats
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
Thai cuisine gets a slick, updated treatment at the new SoHo restaurant Premon Thai. The dining room has a contemporary feel, with a cool white bar and bright orange banquettes. But there’s also a respect for form and function in the presentation of the dishes, especially the green curry, or gang keaow wan.
This rich, saucy curry is served inside a fresh young coconut, which has been cut and shaped by hand, then baked in the oven. The baking gives the inside coconut meat a smoky flavor. When the curry – made with coconut milk, bamboo shoots, Thai eggplant, and chicken or beef – is poured inside, the smokiness mixes in and adds a depth to the dish. The friendly waiters instruct guests to scrape out a spoonful of the soft, flavorful coconut meat along with each spoonful of the curry.
Prem-on is the latest in a string of restaurants owned by Prakit “Paul” Prem-on. In 1979, he opened Siam Inn (now Red Garlic), followed by Sala Thai in 1983 and Siam Inn Too (now Siam Inn) in 1991. In 2002, Mr. Premon’s Bluechili brought pan-Asian cuisine to the theater district.
Prem-on Thai, 138 W. Houston St., between Sullivan and Macdougal streets, 212-353-2338.
