What Goes With Turkey?
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
Thanksgiving looms and you, the designated wine provider — or at least a bearer of wine gifts to the host — have not quite gotten around to the job. Procrastination did not quite merit its own circle in Dante’s Hell, but the spirits were beseeched to redeem Dante’s “neglect and procrastination” as he passed through Purgatory. They obliged.
Allow me to, ahem, help you on your wine way. First, we need a plan of attack. Chances are that you won’t be anywhere near a really good wine shop. So you’ll have to prospect from the limited wine selection of your local mom-and-pop bottle shop.
The first order of business is to recognize that this is not the moment for a tannic, inky California cabernet or syrah. The usual Thanksgiving feast is a snapshot of wine in America today, which is to say from geek to meek. So be wine-gentle.
You want to bring three kinds of wines: bubbly, white, and red. Figure on each bottle serving five people. So multiply accordingly. Also, you might bring along, if you spot it, a nonalcoholic apple cider, preferably one from France. More about that in a moment. The following wines should be seen as what might be called mass-market suggestions. You should be able to find them with no difficulty.
HERE’S THE (LAST-MINUTE) DEAL
SPARKLING WINE The choices in this category are extensive. You’re guaranteed to find the inexpensive Spanish sparklers such as Freixenet and Codorniu. In a pinch, they’re not bad. Better, though, are such California bubblies as Domaine Chandon or, if you’re lucky, Roederer Estate.
Of course you’ll see the big French champagne brands such as Veuve Clicquot and Moët & Chandon. If you’re feeling generous, by all means spring for these. But my experience is that it’s a waste of money. Sparkling wines are all about celebration and most folks pay almost no attention to the actual wine. Champagne is more the about celebratory feeling than the actual taste.
My choice? Asti Spumante. Don’t laugh. People love Asti Spumante, even wine snoots who normally wouldn’t buy it on a bet. Made entirely from the moscato bianco grape, Asti Spumante has the bubbles and the champagne-type bottle. It smells deliciously grapey, has some palate-pleasing sweetness, and is low in alcohol, too. Is it serious? Nah. But Asti Spumante always brings a smile to people’s lips. And they usually want more, too, so double your buying ratio for this wine.
Big brands dominate Asti Spumante such as Gancia and Martini & Rossi. The best big name is Fontanafredda. If you’re lucky, you might spot the small producer Bera. You’ll spend $15 a bottle, tops.
DUCHÉ DE LONGUEVILLE NON-ALCOHOLIC SPARKLING APPLE CIDER
This is wonderful stuff, a connoisseur’s non-alcoholic apple cider. Made in Normandy from 15 different apple varieties, this apple cider has real flavor, even depth and character. It’s bottled in a champagne-type heavy bottle, has bubbles from a natural secondary fermentation and really does go with turkey, too. People will be impressed, I promise. $7.
BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES 2005, LOUIS JADOT Widely distributed, this red from the gamay noir grape variety is a procrastinator’s dream. You can find it easily, it goes beautifully with turkey, and there’s not a smidgen of tannin to unsettle Aunt Sadie’s delicate palate. Louis Jadot is Burgundy’s best shipper. And Louis Jadot did an especially good job in the excellent 2005 vintage with its Beaujolais Village, which has unusual depth and flavor for this often-insipid category. $10.
THE SINGLE BEST LAST-MINUTE DRY WHITE WINE: SAUVIGNON BLANC
Really, you can’t go wrong with sauvignon blanc. It’s flavorful, always dry, rarely over-oaked (if it has any oak at all), and priced right. You want the latest vintage, by the way, which means 2005. Fresher is always better with sauvignon blanc.
You can choose from France, Chile, California, South Africa, and New Zealand, among other locales. If you want steely and minerally, get the Loire Valley versions from Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Crisp and racy? Go for New Zealand. Ripe and melon-scented? Napa Valley. Supple and seductive? Italy’s Friuli zone.
The choices are vast and, happily, prices are always reasonable. You can spend as little at $9 a bottle for the (good) Geyser Peak sauvignon blanc from California or the excellent Veramonte sauvignon blanc from Chile. From New Zealand look for the widely distributed Geisen Estate or Brancott sauvignon blanc, both of which are zippy and a steal at $12. Richer sauvignon blancs hail from Napa Valley, where the warmer climate brings out the fig and melon scents in sauvignon blanc. Look for Honig or St. Supéry at $15.