Sailing Around the World

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The New York Sun

ABOARD THE SV NEW YORK IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC — Sir Robin Knox-Johnston, the first man to sail non-stop around the world alone, is quick to point out that far fewer people have circumnavigated the globe than have climbed Mount Everest.

The reason for sailing’s preeminence among the great human achievements goes something like this: For climbers, a storm on a mountain face is a time to hunker down and wait for it to pass. For sailors racing on the high seas, a storm is when a sailboat’s crew must be on deck and at their best. A combination of strong wind and violent seas is the ultimate test of a man’s mettle.

The 10-month, 35,000-mile Clipper Round the World Yacht Race, founded by Sir Robin a decade ago, has become one of the premiere sporting events of our age. The special quality of this race is why I joined the crew of the sailboat that’s currently in the lead, the New York, as it left Battery Park’s North Cove Marina for the twelfth leg: Some 550 nautical miles to Halifax, Nova Scotia. The race is open to anyone up to the challenge of spending 10 months at sea. Regardless of sailing experience, all participants must take a one-month intensive training course at the Falmouth Marine School in England. It culminates in a three-day off-shore race.

After several days at sea, I realized that the Clipper Race is more than just a sporting event. In fact, I’ve learned more about how the world works by spending time on board the New York than I did about sailing. The voyage brings out the best qualities in everyone involved, part of what Sir Robin envisioned when he created the race 13 years ago.

The first lesson I’ve learned is that when sailing around the world, there’s no such thing as instant gratification. A job well done comes after several days and hundreds of miles of trimming sails, closely monitoring shifting winds, and constantly keeping alert. Master seamanship is based on steadfastness and patience.

Second, it pays to have fortitude. We don’t hear much about this human quality anymore in our overly coddled society. But possessing mental strength and courage in the face of danger is what keeps boats on course and this particular one ahead of the pack. It’s what helps men and women to rise to the top of whatever they do, on the ocean or otherwise.

I came on board thinking a cruise to Halifax would be a whimsical escape from the day-to-day realities of Manhattan life. But facing the raw elements — extreme temperature, wind, and rain — is by no means an escape from reality. Life on board taught me to how to look at the world with a new-found sense of purpose and clarity.

Even the way the race is scored — a cumulative, Grand Prix-style points system — is an important lesson in accountability. You quickly learn that you are the sum of your parts, and what you did yesterday will always, always matter tomorrow.

There are six, four-hour watches on deck each day. That’s why members of the crew usually get no more than three hours of sleep at a time. They live together in cramped, damp quarters and might be lucky to shower once every five or six days. Personal vanity comes at the expense of the rest of the crew, which is why no one on the New York could care less about it.

The evening before the race to Halifax, I attended a cocktail party in the Model Room of the New York Yacht Club to celebrate the accomplishments of the many sailors involved with the Clipper Race, as well as to meet Sir Robin. But I didn’t find any members of the crew of the New York at the party. The next morning I knew why they skipped the event: When crews of other boats were swapping stories on West 44th Street, the intrepid sailors on board the New York were preparing for the next day’s race.

It’s clear why New York holds the lead. Our skipper, Duggie Gillespie, is a two-time circumnavigator from Kirkcudbright, Scotland. He’s a master sailor who commands the respect of his crew, which includes a Wall Street banker, the husband of an English vicar, a retired Seattle businessman, a London paramedic, and a recent graduate of the Taft School in Connecticut.

Most of them have been at sea since late September of last year, when the fleet first left Liverpool. They all decided to put their lives on hold — that is, their lives on land — to take part in a transformative experience. The traits they imparted on me during the voyage are the same ones that will keep the competition at bay.

As I write this, the New York is sweeping across the North Atlantic and will arrive at the Royal Cork Yacht Club in Ireland within a week. The 2008 Clipper Trophy awaits.

Mr. Akasie contributes to The New York Sun.


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