Like most anything else, wine is a commodity that is subject to the whims of the market, supply and demand. For those always looking for a good deal, but something that tastes great, it can be disappointing to watch your favorite under-the-radar gems suddenly hit mainstream and skyrocket in price, or disappear from shelves and wine lists. As a wine buyer, I’m always on the lookout for what’s next.

One such gently simmering spot is Menetou-Salon. We all have heard of Sancerre. It’s the name of a village and an AOC that also includes a few surrounding villages in the Central Loire of France. Here, three types of limestone-laden hillsides criss-cross and host a sea of Sauvignon Blanc vines (and some Pinot Noir) to produce the world’s most ubiquitous version of the grape.

Sancerre has become a victim of its own success. As popularity of its wines drives up demand, prices have soared — even for some not-so-great-tasting bottles. Couple this with the devastating frosts that most of France experienced in 2021, which cut down yields 50-90 percent in many vineyards, and you have a drastic reduction in supply, no matter the price. 

Yet, right behind Sancerre is Menetou-Salon. Here, much of the terroir and the styles are nearly identical. What it has been lacking is a famous winemaker like Vatan, Boulay, Vacheron, or Mellot to garner it some of its much-deserved attention. To be fair, without the notoriety, prices have always been depressed, leading to a lack of investment toward quality viticulture and winemaking, and resulting in generally boring or subpar wines.

Luckily for us there are a few producers who’ve dedicated themselves to the cause of great wine. There are now several crafting top-notch wines at a fraction of the price of the best Sancerre has to offer. These are crisp, clean, elegant wines with the same mineral underpinnings and slightly wild character we look for in our great Central Loire whites. 

If you aren’t married to the name “Sancerre” and want to dip your toe in something new but familiar, look out for anything by Domaine Pelle or Domaine Philippe Gilbert to start. The wines are gorgeous, and with prices that throw back to a more reasonable time.