In something of a happy accident, I’ve ended up in my new favorite California wine region. The Central Coast town of San Luis Obispo, known as SLO among the locals, is home to some of the state’s coolest vineyard sites, capable of producing high-acid, elegant wines. The potential of these sites has attracted a community of some of the country’s most thoughtful and talented winemakers.A week ago, I didn’t think I’d be here. Most people don’t go on vacation and then in the middle of it schedule a bunch of work visits, but such is a hazard, and joy, of being in the wine industry. I’m incapable of not stopping at a vineyard if I’m within 100 miles of one. Normally when I’m in California, I end up in Napa or Sonoma, but this time around, with my family along for the ride, we thought we’d try something different. The plan was a meandering trip down the PCH, California’s narrow coastal highway, with the end destination being the “wine ghetto,” Lompoc, where I was hoping to taste with some of my established favorites: Tyler Winery, Sandhi Wines, and A Tribute to Grace Wine Company among them.The weather had other ideas: A weeks-long series of torrential rain storms has meant widespread flooding. Huge sections of the Pacific Coast Highway have been shut and many in Lompoc had to close to visitors. We were already headed south and, looking at a map, I realized another southerly retreat was attainable, the lesser-known San Luis Obispo. Because I knew a winemaking couple there and already loved their wines, I wondered whether they would want to show us around.Natalie Siddique and Ryan Pace started Outward Wines in 2016, making just a few barrels of Syrah purchased from Ryan’s father’s vineyard at Santa Ynez. It took until 2020 to have enough supply to venture into new markets, which is how I met them at New York in 2021, where I sampled their wares. I bought up the whole line on the spot. The next vintage, 2021, was even better. It is rare for young winemakers to come out of the gate with such extraordinary bottles, and from California no less. Here from the land of sunshine and fruit were wines with a deft touch: clean, precise and mineral. How were they doing it?There is no one answer, but a combination of factors: site, insight, and craftsmanship. They source grapes from cool, Pacific Ocean-influenced sites as far north as Monterey and down to Santa Ynez. Each place offers a unique terroir, with moderate- to high-acid grapes being the constant variable.The insight comes from a life of travel, visiting many of the world’s great vineyards and wineries. Wine is often a parochial trade: People make wines like their neighbors. With Ryan and Natalie, the influences come from far beyond their shores, with a deep appreciation and understanding of what distinguishes the good from the great.None of that would matter if there wasn’t talent involved. Being able to discern a good wine is different than knowing how to make one yourself. Ryan and Natalie have a magical touch. The cellar work is minimal without being dogmatic, and the resulting wines have become instant classics.It takes more than one winery to make a new favorite region. Well, it turns out there is a whole cadre in SLO with the same mentality, each making extraordinary expressions of place. Mikey and Gina Giugni started Scar of the Sea in 2012, with an excellent lineup. Gina has her own label, Lady of the Sunshine, featuring grapes from biodynamically farmed vineyards and a more natural approach. Ryan and Natalie’s Outward Wines have been made in a corner of the Giugnis’ winery (they are moving into their own space next month) and the two couples are best friends.Their other best friends are Tyler Eck and his wife Rachel Goffinet of Dunites Wine Company. Their Chardonnay is more racy and elegant than most Chablis these days, and their Pinots are transparent and earthy in a way most California versions can only dream of. Another strong influencing force for all of them is their relationship with Raj Parr, Sommelier and vigneron. His new home vineyard, Phelan Farms, is only 45 minutes north, along the coast in Cambria. They all get together and enjoy the wines of the world along with the fruits of their labors. There is an energy here, of scrappy go-getters working hard and keeping themselves and each other accountable. It’s a unique and fortunate series of happenstance that have brought them together. All of them are young, especially in wine years, but are fast becoming a beating pulse of California wines.
