Alice Temperley’s Wily Coquettes
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

Alice Temperley’s fall collection, called “L’Apache Parisienne,” was inspired by the Apache gangs of Paris – a network of criminals and street fighters who hovered in and around the cabarets throughout the first decades of the 1900s. The Apache often used their jackets, scarves, and hats to rob passersby in rather cruel, if slapstick, assaults.
Visions of musty, black, threadbare cloaks may come to mind – but don’t for a minute think that Britain’s most popular designer involves herself with such unsightliness. It’s the romantic, feminine aspects of the demimonde that inspired her (as has been the case since she began her eponymous label four seasons ago): the fine silk dresses, the plunging necklines, the appliqued flowers worn by the gang’s wily coquettes. The results are clothes that are vintage-inspired but wearable; of-the-moment but also timeless; glamorous but not impractically so. The perfect marriage of business and pleasure, if you will. As is typical of the 29-year-old Notting Hill-based designer, there is a profusion of color – apricot, black, rose, navy, and claret – this season, and delicate, bejeweled blouses with split sleeves. Dresses are stripped with bands of satin and chiffon, belted with bows, or embroidered and finished with scalloped hems and sleeves. There are sweaters in bold, geometric prints reminiscent of the Wiener Werkstatte, and severely cropped, highwaisted pants and buttoned breeches. Jet sequins, buttons, bows, lace patterns, and beads abound.
Make an appointment to visit her airy SoHo showroom (453 Broome St., second floor, 212-219-2929), soon to celebrate its one-year-anniversary, and be prepared for an onslaught of dainty embellishment. Ms. Temperley will be there herself September 8-15.
EK: You’ve said before that fashion “terrifies” you. What triggers this disdain?
AT: It’s not that I don’t like fashion, I just find the whole cycle of fashion strange. The hunger for the next thing is not something I experience. I understand why everyone runs after the same trend – I collect clothing and I know I’ll wear a dress I love 15 years down the road. And I think our customers feel this way as well. In our showrooms I mix in vintage pieces from my collection – lace wraps, bloomers, blouses, dresses – along with the Temperley clothing. We also continuously produce the most popular pieces from collections past.
So what’s in your closet right now?
Ah. My wardrobe is three-quarters Temperley and one-quarter vintage. I wear Seven jeans.
Your fall and winter line is based on the Apache gangs of Paris. How did you come up with this theme?
We are always jotting down ideas and collecting cloth and going back to our files. For this collection in particular we spent a lot of time at the archives of the Victoria and Albert Museum and wandered around Paris flea markets. I always look to books, furniture, tiles, and other decorative objects as well. Travel plays an important role in our process. We might go to Italy or India or Morocco in search of ideas.
These days every look is trendy: flapper, beatnik, a flower child, and so on. People are increasingly design literate and more interested in fashion history and personalities. What do you see as your contribution to the mix?
People realizing the difference between cheap knockoffs and beautifully made clothing. We design our own fabrics and put a lot of effort into construction, for example. These details cannot be mass-produced. The clothing is meant to last, to be kept.
What type of woman are you designing for?
Myself! I just make what I like. Seriously, we design for all women. Pretty clothing for women of all ages and shapes. The clothing is timeless, classic, and elegant and makes women feel beautiful.
You also design some baby and maternity clothing. Is there anything else in the works? What else would you like to try?
Actually, we are starting now with interior pieces: quilts and cashmere blankets. There will be lots of special things for Christmas, like throws and baby blankets. We approach these pieces the same way we do our clothes: with a lot of craftsmanship!
When you hang out in New York City where do you go thrifting?
I need to explore New York more. I like to wake up early and get a coffee and wander around. I have been to the flea markets on 26th Street.