Armani Gives Couture A Much-Needed Boost
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Giorgio Armani’s first haute couture show in Paris yesterday could hardly have been better timed. Nearly two-dozen high fashion houses paraded in Paris 10 years ago. But just 12 recognized couturiers – including newcomers Andeline Andre and Franck Sorbier – registered with the Chambre Syndicale de Couture to show off their creations at this week’s spring-summer collections.
Ungaro and Versace Couture stopped doing haute couture shows last year and have been joined this season by Givenchy and Ralph Rucci. Hanae Mori has retired.
But in the vacuum left by other fashion icons, Giorgio Armani saw a unique opportunity for expansion. “Prive,” his 30-piece debut collection of dazzling made-to-order evening wear, could help renew interest in the old art-form of haute couture. Previously, Mr. Armani had only shown ready-to-wear in Paris.
“Designers have forgotten women,” the trim and tanned 70-year-old said backstage after Monday’s show. “I feel there is plenty of room to dress women and dress them well.”
“I think there is a clientele, though tiny, who still looks for high-market luxury goods. In fact, I’ve always presented a few exceptional pieces in my ready-to-wear collections,” he added.
Drop-dead glamour best describes the curvy silhouettes adorned with sumptuous helpings of beaded fringe, Swarovski crystals, pearl-encrusted embroidery, and ropes of jet dripping from necks or strewn across bodices.
Mr. Armani remained faithful to his neutral palette of black, white, and beige satin, duchesse silk, organza, and tulle, only straying out of his color range occasionally with wisteria, chartreuse, and lilac for a super-feminine look a la Nicole Kidman.
An evening dress in beige duchesse silk with an embroidered bodice sporting a geometric pattern of gray pearls and black jet was stunning.
Another, in black silk with a bodice embroidered in horizontal stripes and mini-fringes of black and white jet beads would have suited a 1930s movie diva.
This could almost be dubbed Mr. Armani’s “Swarovski collection” – given the amount of Austrian crystal used in bodices, ornaments, accessories, and even complete sheath dresses with wide fishtail hemlines (worn with an underskirt of black tulle underneath for lightness).
The look is sure to seduce Hollywood and Oscar-bound stars. In fact, Mr. Armani’s next stops are Los Angeles, New York, and Hong Kong for private client presentations.