Baby Face With a Woman’s Eyes

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The New York Sun

For a fashion designer, the partnership between clothing and beauty can begin as early as the sketchpad. “It’s important to think about hair and makeup even when you’re designing the cloths,” designer Ashleigh Verrier said.


Ms. Verrier will presents her eponymous Fall 2006 collection Friday at the St. Regis. The look combines an English garden sensibility with beaded flapper style – plus dresses that look bound for movie stars of the independent variety. “Hair and makeup change the whole interpretation of the way people see the clothes. It’s kind of like the frosting on the cake,” the designer said.


This year, Ms. Verrier is collaborating with Shiseido Cosmetics, a company that knows how to create the complementary look the designer envisions – think very sexy and just a touch madcap – for her super feminine, sophisticated line of cropped pants and jackets, pencil skirts, and flouncy dresses that show off her great talent for precious detailing.


“I like the concept of a woman who is a little bit crazy, but also very glamorous at the same time,” Ms. Verrier said.


While working with industry icons like Vera Wang this season, Shiseido continues to seek out young, talented designers like Ms. Verrier. The California native was close to graduating from the Parsons School of Design in 2004 when in an unprecedented move Saks Fifth Avenue snapped up her entire senior thesis collection and placed it on the racks next to Marc Jacobs and Chloe on its prestigious designer floor.


“Shiseido’s vision is amazing. I knew that the artistic elements and techniques they use would be a great complement [to the collection],” she said.


To flatter the collection’s wintry, rich fabrics and ornate trimmings, the Shiseido team performed one of its specialties: dramatic eyes. Ms. Verrier said, “A bold statement is what I’m looking for since there is a sort of sweetness to the clothing. You’ve got to balance it. You need that edge in the makeup to create a sophisticated woman.”


For the presentation, Ms. Verrier brought in stylist Daniela Paudice to create the idea of a sexy yet classic visage that’s just a bit messy. “The look is a modern take on the ’20s, but at the same time it’s a modern take on the ’80s,” Ms. Paudice said. “That glamorous ’80s woman with the big hair and the amazing makeup, but translated into 2006. The eyes should look like a girl would do very quickly before she goes out, rather than being so perfect.”


At a hair and makeup run-though before the show, Shiseido makeup artist Miyako Okamoto chose jet-black liquid eyeliner and decided to keep the rest of the face neutral with a flat base and matte lips. For just a hint of color, she applied a bit of gold to the lids.


“The look is fresh and sexy and classic too,” Ms. Okamoto said. “It’s little bit ’60s.” Only without the false eyelashes.


For hair, the designer wanted a look that was sensuous without trying too hard.


“It’s that girl who is almost trying to be grown up, but she’s in a rush,” Ms. Verrier said. “It’s curly and it’s down, but it has a little bit more volume. The hair looks polished, not too natural.”


To create this look, Shiseido hair stylist Hirofumi Kera, who had arrived at the studio straight from Tokyo, created disorderly curls that rested on the model’s shoulders and cascaded down their backs.


“It’s very, very glamorous,” Mr. Kera said. “It actually reminds me of an American doll. It’s a big wave that’s loose and sexy.”


(While Shiseido is known mostly for makeup and skin care lines here, the company has several hair care lines that are sold only in Japan.)


The pixie-like Ms. Verrier likes to use hair and makeup to be a chameleon in her own life and also to influence her work. She currently sports her signature look: spiky black bob with short, blond, blunt cut bangs.


“I’ve tried a number of different hair colors and different looks,” she said of her own hair. “When I first came to New York five years ago, I dyed my hair jet black. It completely changed the way I was perceived, and the way I perceived everything, too. I like to be experimental and see what evolves from that persona, in terms of the collection.”


And there’s more where that came from.


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