Beauty At Every Age
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

For women of a certain age, there’s makeup with a certain something: Vital Radiance, a new brand of cosmetics created specifically for women age 50 and up, is making its debut this month nationwide.
The brand, part of Revlon, is designed to accommodate the changing skin needs of mature women. It is being marketed as the first full line of cosmetics created for this demographic that’s available at mass retailers.
“What we really assessed in speaking with women in this target is that their skin has changed, and the makeup they’ve been using for years isn’t working as well as it used to,” a vice president of marketing for Vital Radiance, Michele Johnson, said. “There was not a brand speaking directly to this woman, and there really wasn’t the robustness of product offering for her.”
Vital Radiance combats that – and caters to a demographic that is rich with potential consumers. One such potential consumer is Joyce Davis, 60, of Long Island.Though she has a super-rich moisturizer that she swears by, she’s looking for ways to soften the colors on her eyes.
“I wish I could find more eye shadows that were not deep blue or smoky black – something that would show up nicely without being dull and dark,”she said, adding that she does not use eyeliner. “I feel that it makes me look hard. When you get older, you want to look softer.”
And Ms. Davis is not alone.According to Matt Thornhill, president of the Boomer Project, a marketing research and consulting firm in Richmond, Va., companies cannot afford to ignore the demographic.”Every day another 10,000 baby boomers turn 50. To ignore them is to risk shrinking your business,” Mr. Thornhill said. “Over next 20 years, the over-50 segment will grow by 46%,and the 18-49 segment will grow by 8%,according to the U.S. Census Bureau. So it doesn’t take a rocket scientist – or a cosmetic scientist – to realize that if you want to experience phenomenal growth in your business, you need to develop products for people 50 and over.”
The brand was designed around a three-pronged system – prepare, color, finish – that aims to make choosing and applying makeup for older skin mistake-proof. The “prepare” step includes face, eye, and lip primers, as well as concealers and correctors, to prep skin for color products; the “color” step includes shades for face, eyes, and lips. “Finish” products include blush, mascara, and lip gloss.
The line is priced higher than drugstore brands, but slightly lower than popular department store-only lines. Suggested retail prices for the foundations are $19.50 to $20; eye color products carry suggested retail prices ranging from $13.50 to $16.50. Lip products range from $13.50 to $14.50. Mr. Thornhill doesn’t expect the brand’s target women to be concerned with prices. “Overall, boomers in their 50s have the largest amount of disposable income in their lives, so it’s not surprising that it’s a premium priced product,” he said.
Almost all of the products in the Vital Radiance line are formulated to be hydrating, with textures that are smooth and silky enough not to tug on thin, dry skin. (But you don’t have to be in the target demographic to appreciate the ultra-smooth textures of the lip and eye pencils. This under-50 reporter loved the Easy Blending Mousse Shadow, Soft Defining Eyeliner, and Lash Finding Mascara.)
“The largest problems for women 50-plus are dryness, elasticity, and unevenness in their skin,” a manager of product development for Vital Radiance, Laura Garratt, said. So the brand’s three foundation formulas all have a high percentage of water to help with blendability and wear, and to prevent the product from settling into the lines. The Smoothing Face Primer, which has a suggested retail price of $18.50, contains hyaluronic acid, a natural humectant, as well as optical-diffusers and SPF 25.
But there are a few things the products don’t have: anti-aging technology, a marketing campaign built around the idea of looking years younger, or a celebrity spokesmodel. (Vital Radiance marketing materials show non-celebrities who are gorgeous but relatable, Ms. Johnson said.) In this,Vital Radiance differs from a competitive product like Cover Girl’s new Advanced Radiance collection of “age-defying” foundations and powder, which boast Olay skin care ingredients and are represented by Christie Brinkley.
“That isn’t the point [of Vital Radiance],” Ms. Johnson said, adding that women in this target “are very happy with their lives at this stage, and they want to look the best they can today.”
Indeed, though Ms. Davis has favorite products from Clarins, Laura Mercier, and Revlon, she said she’s willing to give Vital Radiance a shot: “I’d certainly be open to trying it. If I find something I like, I stick with it.”
The Vital Radiance beauty system offers educational components as well as products. Five cosmetic brushes, with suggested retail prices ranging from $14.50 to $17.50, are being marketed alongside the products; packaging includes tips from the brand’s makeup artist, Frances Hathaway, and application tips. The brand also provides a toll-free number that consumers can call for a personal consultation and free samples. “We’ve created something that makes it a little bit more foolproof,” Ms. Johnson said.
For boomers, Mr. Thornhill said the very idea of radiance is a selling point. “Youth is no longer an option, but vitality is,” he said. “How they look, how they dress, all of that is going to be [about] how to maintain that vitality. I think [the word] taps into a sensibility that will drive boomers for the rest of their lives.”