Goodbye, sleek. Hello, volume. Fluid silhouettes, featuring baby-doll cuts, bubble skirts, and peasant sleeves will dominate the Spring 2007 season, if the designers who showed off their new collections this weekend have anything to say about it. White and eyelet were back for the second year in a row, but to a lesser extent than last year. Layering was even more prevalent, and neutrals such as ivory, taupe, olive, and slate dominated the color palette.

American designer Tracy Reese cut her new line predominantly from natural-hued fabrics, but the 7-year-old label’s romantic collection, full of pleating and draping, was carefully accented with bright, boldly cut, conversation-piece garments. These items include a knee-length ruched jacket in coral, a draping jacquard coat in deep berry, and a pointelle camisole in curry.

Ms. Reese, whose show began with a tango down the runway yesterday afternoon in the tents at Bryant Park, also offered a variety of drop-waist and bubble-hemmed dresses.

The latter was also on the runway a day earlier at the Sabyasachi show. Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee — he started his label eight years ago as a graduate student in New Delhi — used richly colored and textured fabrics with disparate, yet entirely complementary, patterns.

While the fabric was reminiscent of Mr. Mukherjee’s homeland, the clothing cuts were decidedly Eastern European in flavor. Runway models sported peasant-style dresses, with long, sheer sleeves that gather at the elbow or wrist.

Also on Saturday, Charlotte Ronson unveiled her beachy chic spring collection at the Dylan Hotel, near Bryant Park. The brand is a favorite among the young jet set, and paparazzi magnets such as Nicky Hilton and Adam Goldstein (a.k.a. DJ AM) joined young Manhattan socialites including Jessica Joffe and Shoshanna Lonstein Gruss to see models strut the flirty designs along the hotel’s makeshift runway.

Among the styles on view were babydoll-style mini-dresses and silky camisoles; casual hooded, cap-sleeve dresses, in bright green and in ivory-and-gray stripes, and loosely crocheted tunics and vests in off-white.

At Alice Roi, Saturday, the American designer reworked this season’s legging craze. She paired knee-length, knit leggings in a variety of muted shades with long, roomy shirts and blouses. Ms. Roi has a penchant for layering. Multiple entries comprised short- and cap-sleeve T-shirts and blouses under sleeveless, short dresses and jumpers.

Lacoste is having a totally ’80s moment, bringing back staples of that decade such as knickers for women, mid-thigh-length fitted tennis shorts for men, and sweatbands for both sexes.

White, black, taupe, navy, and baby blues were the prevalent colors in womens collection, which the label’s creative director since 2000, Christophe Lemaire, unveiled Saturday night. The line reimagines the French brand’s iconic T-shirt dress — with near elbowlength sleeves and mock collars and cuffs. It also includes cozy-looking Vneck sweaters in a variety of striped patterns; two shiny dresses featuring Lacoste’s new map-print design, and belted, button-down blouse-dresses with hem-lines from above the knee to mid-calf.

Mr. Lemaire took more risks with his vibrant-hued men’s collection. Some of the most eye-catching ensembles included fitted ankle-length pants in teal with a matching Indian-style kurta, and a plum-colored, zippered jacket — think Members Only, circa 1985 — paired with the male equivalent of daisy dukes, in white.