Chanel’s Two-Toned Wonder

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The New York Sun

Next week, the fashion world will descend upon Paris to see the spring 2008 ready-to-wear collections. Each season, among the biggest shows is Chanel’s, presented in the light-filled Grand Palais. Karl Lagerfeld’s collections for Chanel have a significant influence on the fashion cycle, but even more interesting than his impact on the future is his deft use of the past.

The Chanel brand is strongly connected to its origins through specific design elements that are referenced with care. This year marks the 50th anniversary of Chanel’s iconic two-tone shoes, and this season, as in the past, the shoes will surely evolve one step further.

Launched in 1957, the first design was for sling-backs, beige with black at the toes. The darker color at the tip was an innovation intended to help hide scuffs and stains. But there were other practical factors in the design: The beige color blended into the leg, creating the illusion of length, while the black toe appeared to shorten the foot. The originals were executed by the shoemaker Massaro — whose son and grandson carry on the legacy, working with the house of Chanel to the present day.

Since joining Chanel in 1983, Mr. Lagerfeld has turned the two-tone shoes into everything from thigh-high boots to tennis sneakers. And though the materials started with leather, they range from clear plastic to jersey. The signature, darktoe shoes are now available in styles as varied as a high-heel pump with an ankle band ($975), and a colorful tweed boot ($1,575).


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