Clean Wash

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The New York Sun

Even denim brands are going green these days. Eco-friendly fabric and production guidelines are showing up as an alternative at every price point. The Loomstate for Barneys Green collection features ultra soft, 100% organic cotton denim shorts and jeans. Levi’s Eco line — also 100% organic — includes buttons and zippers constructed from recycled metals and hues achieved solely from natural dyes. The effort extends to the printed tags, which are produced from recycled paper and soy-based inks. At Edun, the socially responsible label created by Bono, organic materials are included in the jeans collection, as well as all the T-shirts.

At Serfontaine, founder Mik Serfontaine is combining great fit with responsible manufacturing practices. Shortly after the launch of the brand in 2002, the designer began visiting the commercial laundries where jeans are given their color and finish. For certain jeans, pumice stone is used to prewash the fabric giving it the appearance of being broken in and faded. “It’s unnatural for a jean to age that fast — a vintage look can take months or years to achieve,” Mr. Serfontaine said.

But by using the porous, abrasive rocks— which are often treated with bleach and other chemicals that soften and add subtle variations to the fabric — the jeans are aged in just a few washes. There is, however, a cost to the environment, Mr. Serfontaine said. When rain falls on the site of a strip mine from which pumice has been extracted, the runoff, which includes displaced topsoil, makes its way into nearby rivers and fresh water.

For Mr. Serfontaine, an avid surfer, the decision to forgo the potentially harmful stonewashing process was a simple one. Serfontaine jeans, with their signature dark washes and indigo hues, are treated with a hand-sanding process.

Changes in production aside, this designer knows what his consumer is concerned about. “Women care about whether their butts look good in the jeans,” he said, adding that buying organic is no longer just for Grateful Dead fans.

With that in mind, the selections for fall are designed to please. Among the best bets is the Skinny Minny ($196), with its cord-like stitching, and the Waysted jean ($99), which features a double button at its elevated waistline and a vampy black finish.


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