Color or Black & White

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The New York Sun

After the first weekend of shows at Olympus Fashion Week, spring 2006 is all about extremes – either popping bright colors or simple white (with contrasting black or navy). Tracy Reese managed to incorporate both in her Sunday show. The collection started off with luxurious white and silver dresses, followed by a racy black lace jacket and tiered black skirt. All of that was followed by looks more signature to Ms. Reese’s brand: a lime-green floral coat, a peachy pink blazer, and long slip dresses in aqua blue, floral print, and soft pink. Twinkle By Wenlan took a colorful route, with mismatched prints on silk dresses; the silhouettes flowed with full kimono sleeves and billowing peasant blouses. Just the opposite was the case at Strenesse, where Gabriele Strehle’s debut New York collection was full of sheer whites in boxy but fitted shapes. Embroidered tulle showed up beautifully here, as did a crocheted dress.


Kenneth Cole kicked things off on Friday with a collection in which relaxed elegance reigned. Though there were plenty of pieces that could be worn to the office, Mr. Cole also seemed ready to dress cubical warriors for happy hours and beach parties. Body-hugging cocktail dresses were colorful in bright blue and red. High-waisted white trousers and straight skirts were belted and paired with summery tops. A ruffled blouse that wrapped around the waist held out the possibility of romance. The collection kept to a palette of browns and white, studded with a few pieces in bright green. The standout accessory was definitely the belt, which cinched a fair portion of the looks sent out.


Lacoste, on the other hand, stuck to its strengths. Though the show’s notes promised “Copacabana clashing with Harajuku,” the sportswear wasn’t quite that exciting. There were some aggressive prints and a strong use of stripes, but the look focused on the standard colors for Lacoste: red, green, navy, and white. And with Andy Roddick in the front row, the clothes weren’t the only draw.


Yigal Azrouel used his meatpacking district shop as the site for his small, but clever collection. The pieces were all about contrast in fabric – a light seersucker jacket was paired with a black taffeta skirt – and also in concept. Looks were breezy yet sharp, as in the navy jersey dress with white raffia braided straps that came to a pointed v-neckline.


The classic shape of a strapless sheath dress was made powerful in a black-on-white vine print pattern. These clothes are intelligently made – and could make a woman look divine, yet they do so subtlety.


By contrast, Esteban Cortazar and Naeem Khan each presented collections full of dresses destined to make a grand entrance. Mr. Cortazar kept to a palette of navy blue, metallics, and light pink for his take on swishy, pretty luxury. Mr. Khan used color well, especially in a long gown with a floral motif hidden under green lace. But he also relied heavily on black and white; the best look was an off-the-shoulder peasant blouse in embroidered tulle paired with a long black taffeta skirt. Antebellum, if you please, but sexy, too.


Saturday night ended on a rock ‘n’ roll note at Sass & Bide, where Tyra Banks enjoyed a seat in the front row. Things were a little punk, a little pirate, and a lot “leather and lace.” Sometimes on the same dress: One black lace dress came with a brown leather V-neck. Designers Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton kept the energy high, sending out contrasting pieces like a white silk top that billowed suggestively and a series of cropped military jackets.The pirate hats and Viking horns on the headwear may not be the hit of the season, but that’s what it’s all about with these wild ones.


The New York Sun

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