Fashion is in for a crosscurrent of trends this year, and at the center of it all is the waist. Baby doll dresses and voluminous skirts have hidden the midriff during the last few seasons, and this spring, the look continues with loose caftans and tunics. But for fall 2008, designers are both tightening the belts and letting the fabric fly.

Donna Karan’s DKNY fall collection took the loose, short dress into cold weather territory. High-waisted dresses and full skirts in solid, bright colors — plus paisley and Provencal silks — were paired with exaggerated knit pieces and leggings. The pouf shapes and bubble hems contrasted with more tailored pieces that suggested the ultimate items for a chic, urban autumn: a trim camel overcoat with gently puffed sleeves, a bold black shearling vest, sweater-dresses, and chunky knits.

José Ramón Réyes, a winner of an Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation award this season, kept an emphasis on the body, but also offered up some wide-cut pieces. Dresses featured swags of fabric draped over and under tight belts, creating an overall attention to the shapely woman underneath. But at the same time, jackets were shown in boxy, military cuts that hung away from the body. A touch of preppy stripes here and there added to a collegiate, boyfriend-inspired aura. A khaki trench coat was made striking with olive fabric on the pockets and trim. This collection marks the brand’s move into a higher end of the market. Luxurious fabrics and more detailing — along with higher prices — will move Réyes out of contemporary sportswear and into designer territory.

At Yigal Azrouël the body proved central, but this designer caters to gals who are too cool to care which way the trend winds are blowing. Waists were there — and not there, cinched and bloused over. A key look came from a striped pencil skirt topped with a loose violet blouse. A high-waisted skirt in Lycra showed up just before a deconstructed shirtdress. One of the best evening looks combined luxury and causal style: A beautiful metal fringe bolero jacket topped a raw jersey shirt. The look at BCBGMaxAzria brought attention to the body with a balance of sexiness and femininity that seemed to bring Farah Fawcett into 2008. Waists were cinched with double belts, but necklines were accented with wide flounces, feather trims, and asymmetrical swags of fabric that suggested butterfly wings. Several dresses featured deep V-necks yet kept things pretty with wispy silk skirts, and extra fabric at the shoulder that floated seductively.

On Sunday, Max Azria returned to the tents to present his revived take on the Hervé Léger brand, which he bought in 1998. The signature look — body-hugging dresses constructed from bands of fabric — was maintained in a series of short dresses, but it was also used as a point of departure. Some dresses came with the banding on top and sheer, flowing layers from the waist down, making for perfect red-carpet glamour. Sculpted wool jackets and capelets were made with the same banding motif, giving the sleeves a beautiful curve.