Outside it was freezing, but inside the runways were smoldering. Looks for femme fatales and cool customers dominated the shows yesterday morning at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. From the drama-queen fur collars at Oscar de la Renta to the come-hither gowns at Carolina Herrera and the futurist motorcycle gang at Jill Stuart, the fall collections have an iron-fist-in-the-velvet-glove balance.

Mr. de la Renta made a statement with long fur collars on fitted and swing coats, the sort that befit Hollywood stars of the oldschool variety. Of all the outerwear, however, a large vest of coyote will surely be a hit with the Sundance crowd. The show led with an excellent sweater that exhibited deft use of volume: The fitted brown cashmere had a gentle pouf at the shoulders and just enough balloon at the wrist to acknowledge the trend without falling victim to it.

While the looks for day combined knitwear and fur in a way that spoke of high glamour and power, eveningwear is always the time for Mr. de la Renta to shine. A violet taffeta shirt with a high romantic collar was paired with a long black satin skirt. A simple sheath dress had an edgy feel with a huge, askew cowl-neck collar. Two gowns had a Grecian air, but in very different ways: A long gown of velvet silk was decorated only with embroidery at the sleeves and in a rectangular shape at the center of the neck, suggesting a tunic; a gray chiffon goddess gown flowed beautifully and featured embroidery in a pretty V shape at the neck.

The color palette of Ms. Herrera’s fall collection was, according to program notes, inspired by Edvard Munch’s 1889 portrait of Hans Jaeger. That thinking led to shades of deep blue, purple, and gray. The dark colors were put together in pieces that had an alluring seriousness: Floaty gowns and skirt-sweater combinations alike were paired with take-no-prisoners fur jackets.

Geometric shapes were embroidered onto short skirts and applied to dresses, which emphasized linearity. One short black dress was covered in tiny square bubbles in a series of strict rows. Short jackets that rounded the waist with wide, boxy shapes offered a swingy look, and an excellent suit of blue and black lamé featured a crisp jacket and a blue pencil skirt. And here too, the long gowns were gorgeous: In red poppy print or lavender teardrop patterns, the Carolina Herrera way with fabric can sweep the mind into a happy, luxurious dream.

At Jill Stuart, the mood was black, tough, and serious. Shapes were simple and unadorned, sometimes moving into puritanical territory with a black line dress and a prim white collar. A circle motif showed up on silk print, woven into fabric, and on round paillettes that were sewn together to make a dress. One winner was a minidress trimmed with black patent leather. The short hems and A-line shapes evoked a 1960s vibe throughout the show, but the heavy use of black had all the verve of a state trooper on patrol.

Nanette Lepore balanced out all the tough-girl vamping with party frocks and sweater dressing. The collection was a mixed bag, with some pieces feeling too peppy in purple and gold. Yet key pieces, such as a chiffon dress with a sequined slip underneath or a striped silk long sleeve shirt with nipped waist, kept up the sophistication.