Dressing for Now, an Eye to the Future

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

PARIS — If fashion designers were arranged on a spectrum of a single idea, the most telling would be their understanding of reality. At one extreme are those who seek to escape the everyday and conventional codes. At the other are designers who embrace how we live and want to make it beautiful.

Two designers who presented within a day of each other represent the opposing extremes. Holding court at base camp for the escapist crowd is Hussein Chalayan, whose flights of fancy are thrilling to watch. And far on the other end of the spectrum is Ivana Omazic of Celine, where every morning is an opportunity for womanly chic.

First, the fantasy. Last season, Mr. Chalayan presented a series of mechanical dresses that unfolded as the models stood motionless. This season, he followed up with a show that included a sack dress made entirely of a flat square of blinking lights, some white, others colorful. When the house lights went down for effect, the model could not be seen and the dress appeared to be floating off the runway on its own.

Headgear made for another theme at Hussein Chalayan. Oval and round plastic orbs lit with red lights topped two models’ heads. Another model wore a sheer black apparatus that rose from the base of her neck like the roof of a convertible, eventually encircling her head like a space mask.

As nifty as it all sounds, there were dresses that one could wear on the street without stopping traffic, but still turning heads. Dresses in shapes from baby doll to trapeze to tight-fitted with ’80s ruffles were shown in fabrics from striped to plaid to brocade. Sometimes several fabrics were used on the same dress, as was the case with the final three. A trio of models walked down the runway and stopped before a large circle that had been billowing smoke (deliberately) throughout the show. They stood before the air current and let the dresses drift up like Marilyn on the subway grate.

The show drew applause from the crowd throughout, which was appropriate: It’s exciting to watch this designer throw out the rules on clothing. With technology in the mix, is this the future of clothing? Maybe, maybe not. But watching Mr. Chalayan’s work pushes the idea to the fore.

Across the spectrum is Celine, where life here on earth can be modern, but it’s a version of modernity that blends classic, cool, and sexy. Ms. Omazic designs sportswear for women who want the earth to move under a gent’s feet. And this collection could do it, too. Dresses — such as a light gray cashmere number with long sleeves and a champagne colored strapless frock — hugged the body. A Siberian tiger motif was printed on a satin dress with cap sleeves that whispered “man-eater,” but in a flirty tone.

Waistlines were accentuated on slim skirts and trousers with wide belts. And in keeping with an emerging theme, the shoulders of a wool and cashmere coat had strong direction. A few bright colors, like a bright green and ruby red, were thrown in, but, for the most part, the palette stuck to luxurious creams and solid black.

This collection helps to define our current reality: Celine is what classic-sexy looks like in 2007. The future? Well, let’s just start by making Monday more glamorous.


The New York Sun

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