PARIS — Short or long, sexy or sweet, dresses by Valentino encourage a spirited embrace of fashion and life. This season’s collection started off with swingy dresses in bubble gum pink, then gave way to trim suits in white and navy, followed by all manner of devastating evening wear.

With 87 looks coming down the runway, it was by far one of the largest collections shown (most offer up to 50), and as such the models at times walked in groups of three or four. Many of the looks were trimmed with rows of tightly-packed circular sheets of organza that were described in the show’s notes as creating a “pages” effect. Imagine a Rolodex filled with cards of stiff red chiffon, and you’ve got it. There was no shortage of polka dots, whether on slim black pants or on a sheer white skirt and blouse with ruffles to match.

Fashion cycles move so fast that collections for one season or another seem to blend into each other. But spring was in the air with Andrew Gn’s fine collection that wafted from day to evening on a breath of fresh air. The signs of spring began early with a dress decorated with large patent leather butterflies. Members of the animal kingdom surfaced again: A short dress with a flowing back panel was made of white silk printed with black butterflies. Dragonflies, too, made an appearance on a linen coatdress and a jacket, as did pale roses with vines appliquéd onto a light green skirt. Perhaps the most refreshing, though, was a white linen coat with colorful birds and butterflies embroidered on just sparsely enough to be pretty without being overwhelming. Despite the emphasis on springtime colors, shades of toffee and chocolate cropped up, too.

Mr. Gn also made much use of solid color dresses, many of which featured a tightly-packed ruffle trim at the neckline and shoulders. Bright gowns of yellow and red swished by, but more playful was a flared organza skirt with wide swathes of orange and yellow paired with a lilac halter top. The show ended with a series of evening gowns, including a showstopping one-shouldered gown of emerald silk. Several looks came with Mr. Gn’s jewelry creations in the shape of black flowers and butterflies — which is not an easy road to take. Prints and graphic imagery can veer off into kitsch, but this collection kept things youthful and tastefully quirky.

Albert Kriemler of Akris is an example of a designer who finds a visual idea and abstracts it onto clothing with only the most subtle references. This season, his inspiration came from the shapes of high-tech yachts — those ultrasleek boats that bring modern architecture to the high seas. Think Wally.

The concept found its way into the collection with sailor-inspired moments, such as wide white pants or a panel hanging from the back of a suit jacket. But these were so well conceived that when removed from the larger collection, one might only be able to guess at the inspiration. The white suit with the sailor bib in back was extremely sophisticated, with small panels at the sides and a slim, tailored fit. Some of the wide, white pants came with sharp details — such as pockets with triangular panels to mimic the shape of sails — that kept the references abstract.

The show closed with two dresses, one red, the other in shades of gray and black, that were covered in square panels: As the models walked, the air kicked up the panels as if they were sailing on a strong breeze.

Sporty looks were not neglected: A bright yellow vest with a turnedup hem was paired with slim trousers. And Mr. Kriemler also indulged in his love of geometry and architecture by creating several dresses made of overlapping panels, one in tan leather with sheer connective panels and another in a beautiful array of light gray and white squares. No matter where this designer finds his ideas, they manifest themselves with an incomparable level of sophistication. These are clothes for women who think, read, and lead.

Costume National’s Ennio Capasa offered a compact collection of sleek, urban clothing. Several dresses in black were trimmed with fuchsia, and a knitted sweater fabric gave some pieces a deep texture. But it wasn’t all so serious. Evening dresses were white with trims and underlays of orange and fuchsia. A lemon off-theshoulder design was used for a top with white pants) and a long dress. A bright red fabric was used for a drawstring coat with snap buttons and a large hood. For a brand that is usually addicted to dark colors, the shift was significant.”This collection was inspired by Indian —not ethnically, but in the couture and tailoring,” Mr. Capasa said.

To be sure, there was only a mere hint of sari-inspired dressing, but it was there in a bright orange band of fabric and in the shape of the eveningwear.

In its ability to fuse alluring fashion with high-concept design, Costume National is hard to beat.