Dressing Men, Again

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The New York Sun

The newest name in menswear is one that’s been around for about two decades: David Chu. As the founder of Nautica, Mr. Chu created a rugged American brand of sportswear that was accessible and affordable. But now, Mr. Chu is now designing under his own name – and for a more sophisticated customer.


Last week, the designer officially opened the David Chu boutique within Saks Fifth Avenue. Located on the sixth floor, the new label occupies prime real estate among the high-end menswear brands like Zegna and John Varvatos. And while the design of the space – brightly lit and chic – stands out from the rest, it’s the clothes that make the impact.


“It’s sport with a tailored component,” Mr. Chu said. “It’s for a modern guy. It’s what he wears to the office, on the weekend, and for travel.”


The collection offers tailored, classic looks accented by just the right amount of color. The look is American preppy, with a nod to the English gentleman. Bright pieces like an orange cashmere sweater or a mustard yellow corduroy jacket attract attention, but the details hold it. Shoulders on jackets are soft and natural rather than boxy. Cashmere zip-up vests have a modern-masculine look. Tailored jackets come with storm flaps and bright, contrasting color underneath the collars.


Though there is a hint of the bold, bright look Mr. Chu developed for Nautica, his signature brand is of a higher quality – and a higher price point. A cotton striped shirt runs $195; ties are $95. Suits can run to $2,000 and a shearling coat is $3,000.


The company’s vice president of sales, Steven Toia, says the consumer is responding well. In the three weeks that the David Chu line has been in eight Saks locations across the country, including the flagship on Fifth Avenue, average sales for each customer have been close to the $3,500 mark. “We’re seeing men come in, and they’re not just buying a sweater. They’re buying a lifestyle. In our business, that takes years.”


In a way, Mr. Chu has been at this for years. In 1983, he launched Nautica with a collection that contained just a few pieces of men’s outerwear. It quickly became a hit and expanded over the years to almost every category of menswear. In 2003, VF Corp bought Nautica Enterprises for $585.6 million. When Mr. Chu left, he played golf for a few days, but soon found himself eager to jump back in the game.


Technically, the David Chu line is a startup business – albeit one with a well-known name and the ability to attract top talent. “I’m better experienced. I put together a really experienced team,” Mr. Chu said.


Nautica became such a large operation that Mr. Chu was drawn away from the day-to-day creativity. But starting up a new company gives him the chance to roll up his sleeves and concentrate on the clothes again. “I can focus on product creation,” he said. “I get to be hands-on again. We make decisions faster and develop the line quickly.”


The future of the line is looking bright. For spring 2006, he’s developing original fabrics for shirts and introducing more color to the line. Future collections will be larger and will have more of an emphasis on tailoring. And don’t be surprised if Mr. Chu one day expands into women’s wear. “I’d like to do it,” he said.


But for now, the main goal is to establish the line and keep it reaching the right customer. Another goal in the near future is to complete the renovations of a six-story brownstone on the East Side. The building will become his atelier with a bespoke men’s shop on the top floor, which will (with luck) open sometime in 2006.


This one-time student of architecture will be involved in creating the look at that location, just as he did in the design of the retail space at Saks. “I wanted to create an environment that reflects my message to the consumer,” he said. His message is about dressing and living at a certain level of relaxed chic throughout one’s work and personal life: “It’s the total package.”


The New York Sun

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