Earlier in the week, many of the collections featured so many dark colors and long-sleeved looks that they could easily have been mistaken for fall lines if it wasn’t for the absence of fur. This was not the case for Wednesday’s shows, however, where both the silhouettes and colors were light and airy. The rising star Thakoon Panichgul made an interesting style U-turn in his fourth collection. It seems that the Thai-born designer, who drew an elite audience of top-notch editors and buyers, follows a pattern according to the seasons. Whereas his fall collections tend to be sharp and tailored, his spring lines are exercises in deconstructed softness. Weightless wonders like a layered, semi-sheer strapless organza dress and elongated tank dresses with low-cut scoop backs trimmed with fluttering petal applications had a cool and slightly otherworldly beauty. Mr. Panichgul has a fascination with material and construction, and it was exciting to see him let loose his experimental side with twisted seams, loose ruffles, delicately tied straps and cutouts, and criss-crossing seams that looked like overblown spider webs. It was daring, innovative, and just restrained enough to appeal to the polished pedigree up front.

Another designer who had spent a lot of time with a thread and needle this season was Catherine Malandrino. Her spring collection emphasized texture and craft. Ms. Malandrino cited a trip to the Amish countryside as her inspiration for the quilted, patchworked, and crocheted fabrics in traditional and simple silhouettes like empire-waist halter dresses and A-line coats. The earthy beige, chocolate, and rusty color palette was a nod to West Africa, as were the beaded straps and neckline embellishments. The meticulous compositions of hand-dyed patches of crochet lace, embroidery, and applique were often breathtaking. But one couldn’t help but wonder how all these highly crafted designs, many of which had been hand-stitched by Ms. Malandrino’s studio assistants, will hold up in the rushed and budget-conscious environment of manufacturing contractors.

The main focus of Michelle Smith’s label Milly seemed to be easy and fun sundresses with an early 1960s vibe. The strength of the collection was in the prints and patterns of the fabrics, bold and colorful geometric swirls and florals adorned flippy baby-doll frocks and tulip dresses that ended just above the knee. There were also girly touches like lace overlay and sparkly stripes of vertical gold thread. The best looks, such as a shimmery strapless jacquard dress, had the sexy freshness of a budding Sophia Loren, but some of the longer chiffon gowns in faded psychedelic patterns looked tired and droopy, more like Sylvia Miles in “Midnight Cowboy.”

Romance was in the air at Anna Sui, where veteran supermodels like Naomi Campbell and Carolyn Murphy fluttered down the runway in light and ethereal chiffon and lace. The collection, which seemed to draw on a mix of roaring flapper girls and Bloomsbury intellectuals, featured loosely cut empire or drop-waist frocks in dainty floral patterns and lace. All the styles – from tunics to Edwardian blouses to slips – were cut in loose silhouettes that seemed to float off the body. Lace and crochet – two obvious trends this season – were present in knits like cardigans and shrugs, and on the sleeves and hems of the fluid gowns. For evening, Ms. Sui moved into “Great Gatsby” territory, with sparkly drop-waist mini dresses and crushed-silk smocks.

Over the past few seasons, Mary Ping has quietly been perfecting her innovative and rigorously finished urban sportswear. Some industry heavy hitters have taken notice; Ms. Ping was an Ecco Domani award recipient last season and was chosen to show in the UPS-sponsored hub this season. Her beautiful and serene spring collection featured semi-sheer jersey-tee dresses with extended hemlines and subtly ingenious details like a folded cap sleeve or rounded side slits. The men’s looks were even more subdued, with crisp button-down shirts in sparse and delicate florals and slim Bermuda shorts in cream-colored corduroy. Ms. Ping is the kind of designer that is reminiscent of the recently retired minimalist masters Jil Sander and Helmut Lang: restrained, highly skilled, and fiercely independent. One hopes she’ll soon have a retail business that matches her talent.