Fall may be months away, but for the fashion world it starts on Friday with the start of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Under the tents in Bryant Park and throughout the city, dozens of designers will show off their fall 2008 collections.

The week starts off with menswear by Nautica at 9 a.m. on Friday — in advance of other menswear labels, such as Perry Ellis and Duckie Brown, which are also holding fashion shows that day. The twice-a-year fashion event will wrap up the following Friday, February 8, with Marc Jacobs presenting his collection at the Lexington Avenue Armory. That show is called for 7 p.m., though last season, when presenting his spring 2008 collection, Mr. Jacobs kept an increasingly annoyed crowd waiting in bleachers for two hours. During the week, a number of new names and emerging designers will make some fashion headlines. For labels including Iódice, 3.1 Philip Lim, and Rubin Singer, this marks the first season under the iconic white tents, pitched on the western edge of Bryant Park. Meanwhile, a decade after the BCBGMaxAzria Group purchased the French label Hervé Léger, the renamed Hervé Léger by Max Azria will hold its debut Bryant Park runway show on February 3. In another rebirth, apparel designer James Coviello is bringing back his signature hat collection — dormant since 2000 — at the Prince George Ballroom on East 27th Street. From the design in a preview sketch, his return to headwear will feature bright colors and elegant shapes.

Advance sketches from other fashion designers hinted that Tracy Reese will feature oversize separates and voluminous pleated skirts; Carmen Marc Valvo will show belted, tailored dresses and muted overcoats, and Custo Barcelona will incorporate kimono-inspired designs in bold hues.

Designer Jason Wu — known for his flirty A-line ensembles, and romantic cocktail dresses — described his Fall 2008 collection as “working girl meets glamour girl.” His runway show on Friday will feature a “dark, rich color palette” and, for the first time, knitwear separates, the designer told The New York Sun.

Last week, the baby-faced designer was among eight fledgling talents to take home the Fashion Group International’s Rising Star award — with Mr. Wu winning top honors in the women’s wear category. The awards recognize excellence in fashion, beauty, fragrance, accessories, and home design. Nominees must be working in their respective industries for more than one year, and fewer than six years.

At the Rising Star awards luncheon, held recently at the Rainbow Room in Midtown, designer Hisham Oumlil took home the menswear award for his label, Oumlil. He said his fall line was inspired by his hometown of Casablanca during its more than 40 years of French rule. Mr. Oumlil, whose runway show will be held on February 5, said his collection will feature suits and separates that incorporate “military influences” and “tailored fabrics, made in Morocco.”

The chief executive of Clark’s Botanicals, Francesco Clark, won in the Beauty/Fragrance Entrepreneur category. Mr. Clark developed the skincare line after sustaining the spinal cord injury that left him wheelchair-bound — and unable to sweat. Suffering from frequent breakouts, the former Harper’s Bazaar staffer, together with his physician father, devised a botanical-based skincare line with anti-inflammatory properties. A portion of the proceeds benefits spinal cord injury research.

The other Rising Star honorees were Kara Ross for accessories, Christine J. Brandt for fine jewelry, Gilles-Fleur Boutry for interior design, and Natasha Coté for fragrance. In the retail category, designer Charles Nolan won for his meatpacking district apparel and accessories store — beating out three local boutiques, Té casan in SoHo, Lord Willy’s in NoLIta, and Hollander & Lexer in Boerum Hill, Brooklyn.