Feathers, Tie-Dyes, Bows, and Sashes

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The New York Sun

Victoria Beckham was there, and caused a stir. Roger Federer walked in, and the crowd broke into applause. The Polyphonic Spree played live on a stage above the runway. Yet even with all the distractions, Oscar de la Renta’s spring collection was the star, and it commanded attention easily.

The looks were a mix of the requisite — short-sleeve suits, pretty day dresses, and the latest rendition of the designer’s signature poofy cocktail dress — and the fashion forward.

Mr. de la Renta has been incorporating ikat and ethnic prints into his collections, but this spring, they seemed to increase in quantity and strength. Bold prints that looked inspired by Africa were shown in deep reds and browns, others that suggested Grecian motifs appeared in olive green. So when a beautiful tie-dyed cardigan in a cashmere-silk blend showed up on the runway, it seemed perfectly in keeping with the global mood. Manipulated fabrics — a white lacquered knit sweater or a textured copper silk sweater — also made a strong showing.

As for evening, the collection proved once again that this house is tough to beat. The show’s final look was by far its most exciting: a black-and-white gown with overlapping petals and a long black feather extending from the waist to the shoulder. It’s the kind of dress that might restrict some activities — dancing, sitting — but who needs that? It’s a dress from an era of high glamour. Other evening looks incorporated color vividly, especially a ballroom gown with a yellow bodice and a brown silk faille skirt.

At Carolina Herrera, the mood was equally colorful, which lent a merry, optimistic air to the collection. The first look down the runway was a white top embroidered with a giant blue cornflower and black shorts. Who wouldn’t be happy wearing that?

Several dresses and gowns contrasted florals with linear designs. Sometimes the lines were more prominent, as with a peachy gown decorated with vertical lines and topped with a red and black flowing ribbon; other times, the flowers won out, as with a white gown decorated at the chest with a bold flower and vertical strips of color below. Either way, the mood was ebullient.

Bows and sashes were in no short order; their contrasting colors and angular shapes offered up just the right feminine dash. Pleats and embroidery, such as opaque stones on a white column gown, emphasized luxurious attention to detail. What’s striking about Carolina Herrera is the consistency of the creativity that shows up on the runway. Ms. Herrera may be known for her white shirts, but the colorful prints in her collections are reliably pleasing to the eye.


The New York Sun

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