First Past The Cameras
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
The early birds generated some pre-fashion energy before the official kickoff Friday. Elie Tahari introduced his new line of accessories and clothing on Wednesday morning, and Ports 1961 presented its women’s collection yesterday in its studio at the Starret-Leigh Building.
At Tahari, the debuting shoes and handbags took center stage. Inspired by his wife’s love of shoes but less-than-perfect feet, Mr. Tahari has created a line of well-padded shoes that range from velvet high heels to decorated flats to knee-high leather boots. One tapered, stacked pump featured detailing on the back of the heel. All of the shoes include scrolling, romantic designs on the soles – for that secret dressy feeling.
Handbags take a stab at luxury with tan mink, moss-green velvet, and burgundy leather. Shapes are classic – rectangular and hobo-inspired – without reverting to reruns. Clothing in this collection shares the same high-end fabrics and detailing as the accessories. Chiffon trim lines the inside of mink jackets and the edges of romantic corset-like tops. Military jackets are softened by embroidery and paneling. The collection mixes fabrics well: Leather jackets come paired with the sheerest of camisoles. Black and red for evening completes a jewel-tone palette of tans, purples, and greens for day.
At Ports 1961, designer Tia Cibani went ga-ga for neutral colors, sweater knits, and tulle. One of the most dramatic pieces was a strapless tube dress in white, chunky knit weave – like a repurposed sweater from 1990. Shrunken jackets were made dramatic with half tutus of tulle peeking out from underneath. More wearable was a gray wool coat with tubular sleeves and an architectural cut. Balloon hems gave skirts and dresses some added volume. One winning look was a dress of lighter-than-air pistachio green chiffon with a fabric tie at the waist. But the prettiest look of the bunch was the simplest: A high-waisted cream sheath dress suggested both structure and diaphanous grace. Though the collection had quite a few highlights, its light palette of tans, gray, and shades of white won’t be flattering on every complexion.
