It was an early call for the gentlemen at Bryant Park yesterday, with aquatic-themed spring 2008 collections for both Nautica and Perry Ellis showing before noon. The enduring American sportswear companies presented an array of pieces inspired by the yacht-and-golf club set: crisp blazers, bright anoraks, and deck shorts and swim trunks, often paired with the footwear of choice along the Eastern seaboard, topsiders.

But the two diverged in selecting a palette, with Nautica’s team of designers choosing a sea of vivid blues, while pinks, grays, and ivories steered the looks at Perry Ellis.

At Nautica, bright red cotton twill pants were smartly fitted, not slouchy. Models opened the show in sporty bathrobes and nylon trunks in nautical-inspired white and navy, topped off with sailor caps. This collection proved the Nautica man has not only found his way since the departure in 2005 of its founder and chief designer, David Chu, but also picked up a bit of an edge, calling to mind the monied bad boys of Bret Easton Ellis novels.

A navy wool pinstripe vest, accented by an electric blue silk tie and matching nylon trunks, was instantly dock appropriate when paired with the two-button sports jacket and seersucker pant.

At Perry Ellis, creative director John Crocco’s easy mix of hooded sweaters, plaid cotton trousers, and mariner shorts underscored what men have come to expect from the brand.

The looks were punched up by the addition of stretch cotton suits, luxe cashmere sweaters, and dashing peacoats. Still, a heavy emphasis on muted tones brought the collection perilously close to blending into beige.