Furs in Paris

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

PARIS — As rain clouds gathered over Paris yesterday, fashion designers drew inspiration from nature for outfits intended to brave the elements next fall.

A French designer, Jean Paul Gaultier, fresh from dressing best-actress winner Marion Cotillard for the Oscars in a mermaid gown, delved further into fairy tale land in search of the big bad wolf.

From full-length foxes draped across the body to zebra-printed outercoats, this collection was all about fur.

“I am perfectly willing to use fake fur — and actually there is some in the collection — but some furs are totally inimitable,” Mr. Gaultier said after the show. “And I have to say that I eat meat.”

Mr. Gaultier provided plenty of status symbols, from the mink coats with rhinestone mesh panels to the power-shouldered pinstripe suits and the rows of pearl beading on swinging cocktail dresses.

An Italian model, Mariacarla Boscono, gave Little Red Riding Hood a naughty twist, pairing her flowing red silk cape with matching elbow-length leather gloves.

A Japanese designer, Dai Fujiwara, worked delicate shapes like bird wings and crystals into his collection for Issey Miyake, which was inspired by a wedding and a funeral.

It included a prototype of the gown he made for the wedding this week of a Finnish couple as part of an international design project. The sleeveless dress folds flat into a hexagon shape.

Models carrying wind chimes paraded in gray and black mourning suits woven with glistening strips, while a sequence of ethereal white dresses were made of disposable cloth.

Mr. Fujiwara said he was reacting to the recent death of a friend, whose funeral he felt was rushed. The care and attention he brought to this collection were a fitting homage.

British design duo Eley Kishimoto showcased the perfect solution to the drizzly weather in its window display at Cacharel’s flagship store on the Left Bank — a trench coat with a stripy cloud motif.

However, eager buyers will have to wait until fall to snap up their first collection for the historic French label, which is seeking a facelift for its 50th anniversary this year.

The print specialists — British designer Mark Eley and his Japanese partner Wakako Kishimoto — offered up everything from “good girl” duffle coats to flirty cocktail dresses in cute patterns including an Eiffel Tower sketch.

“It’s so obvious — we’re very simple people,” Mr. Eley joked.

“We wanted to kind of instigate some French coolness back into the brand so the domestic audience starts to re-appreciate it. If we can capture that, then the rest of the world will follow in the same way it did before,” he said.


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