Home Office
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

There’s some truth to the old saw “Home is where is the heart is.” Designers Zang Toi and Monique Lhuillier, who both specialize in looks for glamorous evenings out, were inspired by cozy interior spaces.
Zang Toi, who spent a year decorating his new apartment, was inspired by luxurious interiors and a certain Marie Antoinette romanticism. His couture looks came loaded with medallions and brooches to suggest French aristocracy and embassy balls. Gowns in lilac and pink accented a collection that was dominated by black and many shades of gray. The latter was used to stunning effect in ballgowns of tiered silk organza that flowed from gray to black. The showstopper was a black velvet strapless gown loaded with diamond necklaces – which fit the show’s soundtrack, Act I from “Swan Lake,” perfectly. His casual looks were in keeping with the house’s elegant style: Long, lean pants in cashmere and tweed were topped with sharply cut blazers.
Monique Lhuillier used the nine months of her pregnancy to flip through interior design books, which led her to fabrics like vintage wallpapers, brocades, and jacquards. The resulting fashion collection was one of her most diverse and attractive. The winners included a muted floral print chiffon gown and a peacock blue belted gown in a thick matelesse, a quilted fabric used often for bed covers. Two dresses featured delicately gathered skirts that gave the silhouettes graceful volume.
The prize for fabrics, however, goes to Michael Vollbracht at Bill Blass. An unusual citrine-on-white toile print (with what looked like more modern scenery than the typical 19th-century tableau) was used for a cocktail dress and a ball gown.A halter gown was cut from ivory silk chiffon fabric with black embroidered drops that suggested leopard print without being too literal. An iridescent rainbow fabric was used for an embroidered gown with a basket weave at the bodice.
With such interesting fabrics, one could easily pass over a halter dress in bright red with a big, wide belt. Simple, yes, but in its proportions, the dress revealed what a powerful difference it makes when a visual artist (like Mr. Vollbracht) designs clothing.
While Bill Blass dresses are for women of a certain tax bracket, Chaiken sent out looks that work for the New York girls who ride the subway to the office every day. Camel coats and suits with knotted toggle closures were covetable. A jersey sheath dress with a deep v-neck kept things office-sexy. Several pieces, including knit wrap cardigans, revealed cut-outs at the back for a surprise accent to the simple looks. Overall, a highly wearable batch of clothing.
Max Azria Collection produced a beautiful line that will most likely end up in plenty of magazine editorial shoots. The balloon hems and bubble shapes, however, are not universally flattering in real life. The same goes for the flowing kimono-inspired dresses. That said, there was plenty to attract the eye on a conceptual level. At Tibi, the looks also incorporated an Asian sensibility, with flowing silk sleeves and cherry blossom print fabrics. The best dress of the show was a black-and-white strapless number with a bubble skirt that combined a zebra-like print with an Asian floral pattern. Topping off all the chinoiserie were several fun pieces that looked back to London in the swinging ’60s. Though these multiple personalities seemed a little less than cohesive, what held it all together was a sense of fun with fashion – a welcome development at this point in the week.