Hometown Stars
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

In 2007, the dollar was weak, but the design was strong. American fashion designers found a gorgeous groove in both the fall and spring collections presented this year. There were high notes of style — and a growing sense of the runway show as a form of theater (when it’s not a total circus).
For his company’s 40th anniversary, Ralph Lauren held court uptown at Central Park’s Conservatory Gardens. In an enormous, perfectly appointed tent, he presented a collection that relied on his tried-and-true combination of American and English influences. Equal parts Ascot Racecourse and Kentucky Derby, the spring looks were presented in a setting that emphasized the idea of grandstands, green courses, and easy elegance.
The mood was also celebratory at Oscar de la Renta’s spring collection. There were no major milestones to applaud, but the designer invited the indie band Polyphonic Spree to perform live. It was a show and a concert in one — and the crowd seemed to love it all. That is part of what has given Mr. de la Renta so much power: He knows his audience. The fall 2007 collection seemed to define a certain sort of confident, cultured New York woman. And he keeps it coming all year long.
For spring, Donna Karan left behind her famous use of black fabrics and embraced a palette of tans and browns. The shapes were classic: nipped waists, wide skirts, and exposed shoulders. It’s not a new silhouette, but it’s flattering. And if anyone knows that women want to find a balance of allure and strength, it is Ms. Karan, who created an empire based on understanding what women want to wear.
Though Michael Kors had already built a name for himself, Project Runway has helped to make him one of the most recognizable faces in his generation of American fashion. But entering the popular culture has not distracted him from turning out consistently chic collections. His fall 2007 looks were straightforward shapes and classic fabrics such as camel and grey cashmere. For spring, he presented bright colors that speak to a lively embrace of travel and fashion.
It wasn’t an easy year for Marc Jacobs. In addition to a trip to rehab in the spring, the designer earned the ire of many fashion watchers who endured long waits for his shows to start. But the fact is that when those shows do eventually start, his undeniable talent flows forth. His fall collection was an artful presentation of a sleek, elongated shape that seemed to herald a return to propriety. But he shifted course in his spring collection, a crazy quilt of exposed underpinnings, sheer fabrics, and deconstructed designs.
It does not have as broad an appeal as his line Marc by Marc Jacobs does, but it does push the fashion world forward into new territory. The unpredictable nature of his talent is what makes him an exciting designer to watch. And if he were to move his show to Paris, as he has threatened to do, New York would lose a major creative force. Here’s hoping things settle down for Mr. Jacobs in 2008.