Hourglass Figures For All

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The New York Sun

From the red carpet to the runway, Hervé Léger is back.

The label, started by a French couturier and transformed by designer Max Azria, will make its runway reappearance during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, which begins tomorrow.

Mr. Azria scooped up the brand in 1998 and relaunched it a year ago. Under the auspices of his Los Angeles-based BCBGMaxAzria-Group, the brand has gained momentum on the red carpet with celebrities such as Catherine Zeta-Jones, Kate Bosworth, and Victoria Beckham. It also boasts boutiques at trophy addresses, including Madison Avenue, Rodeo Drive, and Paris’s Rue Cambon, where its form-fitting, neckline-plunging dresses, constructed from colorful bands of fabric, are sold. Yet it has been visibly absent from the runway for more than a decade. The fall collection, to be presented Sunday, features “creative interpretations” of its signature dresses. Runway looks will incorporate a wide color variety, as well as more embroidery and beading than label devotees are accustomed to seeing, Mr. Azria told The New York Sun. A line of cashmere knits will also be introduced under the tents in Bryant Park — the nerve center of the eight-day fashion week.

“While Paris was the birthplace of the Hervé Léger brand, the recent resurgence in popularity of the collection originated on the red carpets of Hollywood and New York,” the designer said. “Since we’ve infused the spirit and vitality of America in this collection, New York is the ideal venue to showcase Hervé Léger by Max Azria.”

And while the runway designs are a notch more casual and include more embellishments than collections past, Mr. Azria said the fall collection preserves the label’s iconic bandage dress. Hervé Léger by Max Azria’s dresses are known to create an hourglass figure that highlights curves and sculpts away extra pounds. “With artful seaming and a geometric bias, the pieces shape the figure in a way that is feminine and effortless,” Mr. Azria said. Celebrities will attest to that. A reality television star, Kim Kardashian, has said Hervé Léger is one of the only dress labels that fits and flatters her curvaceous figure. Actress Sharon Stone reportedly referred to a Hervé Léger design she wore to the Cannes Film Festival as “a very femme fatale dress.”

To be sure, Hervé Léger has experienced a revival and has become more widely available under Mr. Azria’s creative control. The designer attributes the brand’s resurgence to womenswear “moving in the direction of more feminine, shapely silhouettes.” But as the label’s chief executive, Mr. Azria deserves more than a modicum of credit. The Tunisia-born Mr. Azria, who began his career in Paris and now resides in Los Angeles, has built a global empire with his ready-to-wear lines, BCBGMaxAzria and Max Azria. His wife, Lubov, is the group’s creative director.

BCBGMaxAzria — BCBG stands for bon chic, bon genre, a French colloquialism that roughly translates to “good style, good attitude” — is the company’s most casual collection, encompassing well-tailored work clothes and cocktail wear with a sexy, undeniably French edge. The Max Azria label is geared toward risk-taking, creative professionals; its adventurous, aggressive spirit is derived from the personal style of Ms. Azria.

Those lines, as well as Hervé Léger by Max Azria, have an unabashed sexiness that celebrates the female form. The simple cut of the Hervé Léger designs is unfussy and chic. The fabrics move in all directions, designed for women who do the same in their lives — even on the red carpet.


The New York Sun

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