How the Corset Inspired Paris
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PARIS — Inspired by the idea of the corset, Celine creative director Ivana Omazic’s spring collection took a modern look at structure. Linear shapes that echoed the boning of yore were placed on the outside of garments as decoration, but they also did double duty in slimming and emphasizing the waist.
Some of the best looks were the simplest: a white satin T-shirt with tiny pleats in the back worn with a full white skirt, as well as a navy blue version with a skirt made of vivid blue and black on iridescent silk.
Fabrics and construction made a strong impression, and Ms. Omazic seems to be having some fun with interpreting an abstract idea into her work. Drawstrings added here and there made delicate fabrics more sporty, as in a sheer brown long-sleeve blouse. Several skirts and dresses of ultralight jersey fabric were extra swishy — thanks to a wire hem that kept the circular shape of the garment bouncing and bobbing around, as a crinoline would have.
Bold splashes of color were a major element, too. Fuchsia showed up on high-heel sandals and a satin sheath dress. Red was used for a sporty trench, and several handbags were shown in patent leather turquoise. Clutches were an essential part of this collection, as were larger bags in bright, quilted white and python with holograms.
Though the collection emphasized short party dresses over the sophisticated day wear that Ms. Omazic has created in the past, there were some suits that would look powerful when needed. A tan jacket was slim and fitted, with the corset details, and paired with a loose, swingy skirt: Just the right amount of seriousness and charm, which is what the Celine woman is all about.
Barbara Bui said au revoir to black and showed a spring collection in a palette of white, brown, and pinks, accented with animal prints. Short, flowing dresses in a sheer python-print fabric mixed romance and aggression, while a series of white caftans accented with brown and pink trim looked, as the program notes said “très Lee Radziwill.”
For the times when Ms. Bui’s girls aren’t busy hosting diplomats and international swells, they’re partying hard — and perhaps putting in some time at the office. A bold, tailored look of white pants, paired with a tan leather jacket and a pink blouse with a large floppy tie was an update on 1970s menswear-infused style. But there were slim-cut minidresses and bat-wing python print frocks to return the femininity in a flash.
The coats in this collection hit several high notes, including one cream leather coat with top stitching and round silver buttons. Among the most unusual pieces were tube tops of tan leather with pockets on the chest that look borrowed from the backsides of jeans. With little tab buttons at the loose waist, these shirts were showed in white and tan, and paired with pants for a rock-solid sexy look.
Barbara Bui is well-known for shoes and bags that lead the pack. This season’s shoes were taller than ever, with multiple straps and ankle wraps. Many of the designs were black with accents of python and dark colors. The bags, too, included animal prints and textured leather in somewhat smaller proportions — clutches and large envelopes with gold chains — than in seasons past.
At Anne Valerie Hash, the details won out over silhouettes and cuts. A loose, billowing shirt with varying sizes of light pink fabric braids wrapped around was a beautiful statement piece. Several cropped vests in silver and gold were pleated with care. As for sculptural clothing, few pieces can match the wearability of Ms. Hash’s white, gauzy shirts; the fabric wrapped around the shoulders like a cloud. A silvery mesh bolero jacket also stood out.
The collection, however, seemed to go in too many directions. The high-neck, long-sleeve blouses just seemed too familiar and too dowdy. The flying-saucer-shaped skirts added a surprising geometry. And it may be the case that the European market is more accepting of white silk knickers or gold silk jumpsuits, but they’re not likely to be flying off the shelves in New York.