This week, models breeze down Bryant Park’s runways in wispy numbers designed for Spring 2005. But meanwhile, top editors and buyers (and, clamoring for standing room, Parsons and FIT students) try to get an early jump on the Fall 2004 trends by stealing glances at those sitting next to them.

During fashion week, I relish the opportunity to get dressed for going to Bryant Park to watch the defiles. In French, the word is used to describe both fashion shows and parades – apt for an event where there is as much style off the catwalk as on. Under the tents is prime territory for scoping out the latest looks. And I am at least as interested in seeing how fashionistas have interpreted trends as I am in the next season’s wares.

It’s also easier to see what the audience members have on. After all, the designers’ presentations only last about 15 minutes, and before the bass starts thumping, it’s just a roomful of fashion police surveying the audience with their critical eyes. Waiting 45 minutes for a show to start is hardly uncommon; few attendees have the clout required to bring a guest, and part of the fun becomes checking out the woman sitting next to you. Or better yet, those a few rows in front.

The front row, of course, is where the girls of the moment vamp for the paparazzi, where socialites sit primly with their ankles crossed and mini-dogs in their laps, and where tastemakers such as Suzy Menkes and Anna Wintour scribble notes that can shape a whole new generation.

So how does one dress for the front row? And, more importantly, how does one do it without falling victim to fads or sweating under a mink capelet in 80-degree weather?

Buyers are one example to follow. They generally play it safe with basics from big-name houses – the latest versions, of course, but still just dark skirts and Manolos. Although it’s a well-maintained group, few of them (or the rest of us) are built like Eastern-European 16-year-olds, and they may be wise to play it safe.

The best way to look as if you have plowed through all 800-plus pages of September Vogue but aren’t living by its dictates is by choosing accessories carefully. Jewelry, shoes, and bags are virtually season less.

I am drawn to this autumn’s ubiquitous brooch look; on the other hand, I don’t love sticking holes in my lapels and dragging down delicate fabrics with weighty rhinestones. Since costume jewelry is in, but dramatic earrings are out, I’ll be wearing funky necklaces – preferably vintage.

There’s nothing like vintage to make you look like a trendsetter rather than follower. Plus, it’s such a pleasure to be guaranteed a one-of-a-kind look, and to be able to say so when someone asks you where you got your ensemble.

I’m diving into the back of my cabinets to recreate the kind of Edwardian/bullfighter look favored by Valentino. I’m no Annie Hall – I want my menswear to scream “woman.” So, in the back-to-school spirit of September, my vests and skinny ties will take a Gothic uniform twist.

I’ll be avoiding black like the plague. Why blend in when you can stand out? The closest I’m getting to neutral is khaki. And no stilettos either, or even the stacked heels that have been gaining ground: There is no chauffeured town car idling on Bryant Park’s curb for me. Since I’ll be hoofing it between the shows and the office, it’s low, comfy shoes all the way.

All week, people in the business of fashion are thinking sales and profits as they calculate what to feature on their style pages or what to put on the racks in a few months. But it’s just as much a time to seize the frivolity and fun of playing dress-up.