Jacobs Rocks — On Time
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
It wasn’t the free champagne and candy. It wasn’t the mini-concert by Sonic Youth. It wasn’t even the Marc Jacobs/Sonic Youth tote bags and T-shirts. The best thing about the Marc Jacobs show was that it started on time. In fact, it started early. Mr. Jacobs — sporting a crisp black suit and dyed blue hair — kicked things off at the New York State Armory at 68 Lexington Avenue with an unusual spirit of friendliness. Walking onto a wide square stage at around 7:15 this evening, he shouted, “We’re ready, everybody! We’re ready!”
In recent seasons, Mr. Jacobs has kept his audience, which can consist of several thousand people, waiting far beyond the industry standard. Usually, if a show is planned for 7:00, it will start half an hour after that. Last season, Mr. Jacobs caused an industry meltdown by keeping the crowd waiting for two hours before starting the show. The frustration, rumors, and recriminations reached such a peak that Mr. Jacobs threatened to move his show to Paris.
But he played a smart hand this season. After a surprise carnival atmosphere like the one he created, what’s to say but “Bygones”? As for the clothes, the collection looked like another exploration of silhouette and shape. Skirts were narrow and long. Jackets were draped with extra vertical waves of in back. A gray dress with a dropped waist, askew neckline, and long skirt seemed one of the most refined pieces. A hot motorcycle jacket in gray leather was one of the most fun. For evening, a long gown of pale blue with a striking drop at the neck and back was perfectly positioned for the red carpet. The overall palette was soft and neutral — ranging from pale pink to soft blue and shades of slate, with a few silver and bronze pieces thrown in. The pale colors stood in strong contrast to the screeching guitars and angry rock of Sonic Youth, which played two songs.
What’s somewhat surprising is that the audience didn’t react with more gusto when the band finished and Mr. Jacobs took a bow. Sure, it was a long day and no one wants to be caught dead expressing an ounce of enthusiasm. But surely Sonic Youth could have been convinced to play one more song — or even just a little riff of an encore? But it wasn’t a concert, after all. It was a fashion show. And one that will be remembered.
