The King of Fashion
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

Elvis Presley, who died 30 years ago this week, didn’t have one signature look — he had many. There was the gold lamé blazer he wore while on tour in 1957, the all-leather suit he donned for his 1968 “Comeback Special,” and, of course, the jewel-encrusted, wide-collar jumpsuits he sported onstage in Las Vegas and Hawaii in later years.
As a fledgling performer, the man who would become “The King of Rock ‘n’ Roll” favored colorful, flashy attire, and completed his look with plentiful gold jewelry.
Though he was pictured in jeans in the 1957 films “Loving You” and “Jailhouse Rock,” he eschewed denim when the cameras weren’t rolling. “They reminded him of the poverty of his youth,” the author of “Elvis Fashion: From Memphis to Vegas” (Universe, 2004), Julie Mundy, told The New York Sun.”He took great pride in the clothes he wore. Even though he was a very humble person, it was the one place in which he showed off his wealth to the world.”
In the early 1960s, after serving two years in the U.S. Army, Elvis’s wardrobe took a more conservative turn that befitted a silver-screen star of the era. He opted for pale sports coats paired with crisp dress shirts — often unbuttoned almost to his ribcage.
These relatively restrained designs gave way to increasingly outrageous ones when Elvis returned to the stage and began performing regularly in Las Vegas. “Elvis evolved through the ’60s and ’70s,” Ms. Mundy, the London-based editor of an Elvis appreciation Web site, said. “He certainly didn’t try to evoke the feeling or the look of the 1950s. He felt it was an era gone by, and he should move with the times.”
During the 1970s, Elvis appeared in concert in form-fitting embroidered and bejeweled jumpsuits with wide, gilded belts and studded capes. A special exhibit, “Elvis Jumpsuits: All Access,” comprising 56 of these ornate costumes by designer Bill Belew, is now at Elvis’s Memphis estate, Graceland. “Bill created this look for Elvis that, somehow, didn’t compromise his masculinity,” Ms. Mundy said.
Despite Elvis’s drastic fashion evolution, there were some elements of his style that remained with him throughout — namely, his affinity for standout colors, bright linings, and jewelry. Much of Elvis’s jewelry featured a lightning bolt and the letters “TCB” — for the star’s motto, “Taking Care of Business” — and was designed by a Memphis jeweler, Harry Levitch, who often accompanied the star on tour.
“He was blinged out from the very beginning, and only got more so as he got older,” the author of “The Girls’ Guide to Elvis: The Clothes, The Hair, The Women, and More!” (Random House, 2002), Kim Adelman, said in an interview with the Sun.
But all of the jewelry aside, it was Elvis’s long sideburns — tailored in the 1950s and thicker in the 1970s — that remain his most iconic accessory.
Elvis’s earlier looks have impacted the costuming of other performers, such as the rocker Jon Bon Jovi, who wore a gold lamé suit on the cover of a 2004 album. Ultimately, though, it was the King’s 1970s jumpsuits that would change way Las Vegas performers dressed, with dinner jackets giving way to more experimental attire, and inspire countless tribute artists.
“You could put anyone — any age, sex, or color — in that style of jumpsuit, and you know it’s an Elvis takeoff,” Ms. Mundy said.