Fashion designers love to turn to visual art for inspiration, and Thursday morning’s shows were all about the painters. Vera Wang succeeded in improving on Mark Rothko. At Wunderkind, Wolfgang Joop celebrated the spirit of the New Objectivists, who emerged after World War I. And Pamella Roland went so far as to include a color print-out of John Singer Sargent’s “Madame X” with her show notes.

Ms. Wang interpreted Rothko’s color field paintings into flowing dresses of two-tone chiffon. In one case, a black and light gray dress was topped with a long lavender blouse, which added a brighter color dimension. Ms. Wang was at her best, though, with dresses that had a sense of haphazard elegance, or a slightly disheveled look. An orange chiffon gown featured a scoop neck lined with a darker ruffle and a skirt that gathered at seemingly random points. A blue metallic suit – a wide cardigan jacket and skirt – of floral brocade was crinkled and wrinkled with just the right touch. Though Rothko was an inspiration, Ms.Wang stuck to a muted palette of reds, purples, and blues with black.The Vera Wang brand evolved significantly last season, and this fall collection was more evidence that there are interesting days ahead.

As if in counterpoint to Ms. Wang’s accidental spirit, the Pamella Roland show was all deliberate glamour. Designer Pamella De-Vos has a talent for flattering evening gowns that speak of dignity and femininity: It is entirely fitting that she chose Sargent as an inspiration. The best of the lot was a taupe satin stunner with a giant shawl collar. Ruched taffeta made a rust-colored gown particularly eye-catching, and beaded details on hems and sleeves gave several dresses a delicate swish. Gray mohair was used frequently, as was swirling decoration on skirts and suits. Coats in boucle, paisley jacquard, and brocade were strong in shape, yet emphasized the line of the body well. Though the spirit of the collection was womanly and somewhat proper, a surprise jolt of sheer sexiness came from a rust leather sheath dress with a low square neck and belt. A modern Madame X, for sure.

At Wunderkind, the work of painters Christian Schad, Tamara de Lempicka, and Georg Schrimpf informed the collection. But whatever the guiding lights, this line ranged far and wide. There were sharp tweed suits with wide cummerbunds, and a soft belted dress with a wide scoop neckline and pleats from tip to toe. (Think Eastern Bloc shopgirl smock, only prettier.) Add to the mix leopard prints on jackets and high-neck dresses. Want more? How about a mink vest with hood over a balloon hem dress in gray wool? Or the best of the lot: a black dress with a cream slip and cream beaded accents at the neck and sleeves. Though Mr. Joop is known for his many-faceted art collection, the connection between these clothes and the inspiration was diluted. With so many different looks, the Wunderkind collection was an entire museum, rather than one gallery.