A New Mogul of Mod Sets Up Shop
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It’s a mod, mod world for Lisa Perry. The designer’s first collection, based on the vintage 1960s clothes she has worn almost exclusively for 10 years, makes its premiere at Jeffrey on Friday to coincide with the launch of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week.
She is celebrating with a launch party tonight in her SoHo studio. Hosts include pals from New York’s arty social circles, Tiffany Dubin and Yvonne Force Villareal. The names on the guest list — Larry Gagosian, Harvey Weinstein and Georgina Chapman, Thelma Golden, Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn, and Kelly Sugarman — reflect the black book she has developed with her husband, Richard Perry, who runs a large and successful hedge fund.
The Lisa Perry collection features wool jersey made in England and fashioned into minidresses, tunics, leggings, and pants, inspired by creations by Rudi Gernreich, Pierre Cardin, and André Courrèges, and priced starting at $995. The designs, in bright colors and geometric patterns including stripes, have names such as Swing, Swirl, Jump, Twirl, and Lady. There are also evening gowns inspired by some of Ms. Perry’s favorite pop art; Fleur de Lisa, based on a painting by Martial Raysse, landed in Vogue this month, worn by Caroline Kennedy.
For Ms. Perry, the transformation into a fashion designer from a vintage fashion collector, Upper East Side mother, and volunteer fund-raiser for New York Presbyterian, Senator Clinton and other abortion-rights supporters, as well as several New York museums has been rapid.
“The reason it has come together so quickly is that I’ve been living it so long. It’s a natural progression,” Ms. Perry said. She has an undergraduate degree in textile technology from the Fashion Institute of Technology.
The clothes, manufactured at a factory on West 36th Street, are true to the original inspirations with a few modifications for comfort. Ms. Perry made armholes larger and added pockets.
“I love pockets,” she said, slipping her hands into the ones on her hot-pink mini dress and shrugging her shoulders and smiling.
The line started in June with a few sketches on paper and a trip to the garment district. There she found her staple fabric, wool jersey, in bright hues of purple, blue, and green. One friend introduced her to the sample maker Danielle Gisiger, another to the owner of Jeffrey, Jeffrey Kalinsky. Soon she had more than 100 orders and a one-year exclusive to sell at Jeffrey, which has stores in the meatpacking district and Atlanta.
“It’s a lot of work, and I have a lot to learn, but I have the time to commit,” Ms. Perry said.
Color, which for Ms. Perry equals fun, is essential to her vision.
“New Yorkers are too serious in black,” she said. That outlook took hold when she was growing up outside Chicago, in a home filled with bright murals by her father, a painter, an orange shag carpet in the living room, and a yellow shag in her bedroom.
The colors of her first collection are the same ones she used to create a series of large felt dots that hangs in her studio, now the headquarters for Lisa Perry Style. Ms. Perry envisions the dots as a standard part of the décor in future Lisa Perry boutiques. Jeffrey has the prototype, complete with dots and colored M&Ms in candy dishes that spell out the word “Enjoy.”
“It’s a total lifestyle,” Ms. Perry said, picking up handbags she has designed to go with the clothes. Her ideas for expansion include cashmere sweaters in the dot colors, bathing suits, cover-ups, headscarves, long earrings like the ones she wears, and place settings. Some things she knows she won’t try: any skirt length other than mini, and anything in denim.
Women ages 16 to 60 have bought from the line. “What’s fun is the way they’ll put their personality into it. The teenager wants to put on the mini with bright tights and boots. A grandmother pairs the mini with pants,” she said.
The lines are loose from the body. “You can gain two pounds or lose two pounds. You can actually eat and breathe in these,” Ms. Perry said.
How will the look change from season to season? Not much. “For fall, I’ll recolor, and introduce some new fabrics: vinyl jackets, knits,” she said.
Ms. Perry knows what she likes. The fact that 1960s style is the look of this season is a coincidence. “I’m going to do what I’m going to do. I’m not trendy,” she said. She rarely attends fashion shows and has no plans to do so next week, when Fashion Week takes over Bryant Park.
She used to wear her vintage designs every day. “Now I’m only wearing Lisa Perry,” she said, making clear how much she sees herself as the ambassador for her brand. It’s a role she has been perfecting by attending and being photographed at charity galas in her vintage looks.
Ms. Perry still spends a lot of time in her closet. “I’m in there a lot, looking at my pieces for inspiration,” she said. “As fun as this is, this is not a game. I want to get it right.”