The Next Necklace

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

When stylist Nicoletta Santoro was searching for accessories to pair with Donna Karan’s spring collection, she wanted a simple, fluid look to compliment the sensual, body-conscious clothing. And for that, she turned to Jelena Behrend, a Manhattan jewelry designer who has been plying her trade for 20 years. The selected pieces – which nearly stole the show during Olympus Fashion Week – are long, mobile chains that resemble sterling silver bangle bracelets. The interconnected circular, square, and triangular shapes came in three different lengths, which were paired with different looks: short with jersey dresses, medium with pant suits, and long (so long that they reached the knees) with evening dresses.


For Ms. Santoro, the final decision to use the chains (which start at $795) had much to do with how they moved. “I wanted jewelry with so much movement it would resemble fabric,” she said.


But she was also looking for someone who was not overexposed. Ms. Behrend set up shop in New York seven years ago, originally under the name Oxygene Collectif. She has quietly made a name for herself with handmade, un-cast chain jewelry, but her collection also includes a range of rings (hammered platinum, $2,295), hoop earrings (sterling silver, $125), and cuff bracelets (sterling silver wide clasp, $725). Her clean, understated style is worked into several silver materials as well as white, green, rose, and yellow gold.


Born in Serbia, Ms. Behrend began designing early on, decorating her school uniforms with leather pockets, patches, and embroidery. After winning a young poets’ competition and studying linguistics in Belgrade, she intended to become a writer. But she switched gears after she learned some Old World jewelry techniques from a family friend – a gypsy who had crafted Ms. Behrend’s parents’ wedding bands.


Ms. Behrend now has a thriving small business with clients who seek her out for personalized items like wedding bands and engagement rings. Ms. Behrend’s pieces often feature words and messages that can be customized.


And while she was thrilled to have her work in the Donna Karan show, she celebrated not with champagne but by getting back to work: “It’s a never-ending story.”


Jelena Behrend Studio, by appointment only, 188 Orchard St., 212-995-8497.


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