The baby dolls are growing up.

The first days of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week suggest the continued dominance of the volume trend: A-line cuts, bubble hems, and all manner of loose, draped dressing. And as designers play with shapes and proportions, they become more sophisticated in their knowledge of what styles women will pay to wear.

Tracy Reese offered a more womanly sense of femininity than in seasons past, but she maintained a sweet side with candy colors and short tunics. Simple A-line dresses — one in bright magenta, another in muted beige with sheer wavelike cutouts — had an air of lively 1960s fun. Ms. Reese’s talent for evening coats to go with her party frocks was in strong evidence: The outerwear varied from sexy in silver lamé fabric to White House–ready in navy boiled wool. The show concluded with a series of pieces — from a tight-fitting T-shirt with bubble sleeves to a dress that balanced loose fabric with a body-conscious cut — in a bright strawberry and rose colors.

The mood was darker and more seductive at BCBG Max Azria. Appliqué and details showed up on several dresses that billowed out from the body. A raccoon-and-fabric vest added a note of sharpness to a light grey shift. The last look was a stunning gown of jacquard lace with thin straps of black feathers against the shoulders. Feather details also showed up on one of the most fun, but least practical pieces: a short-sleeve parka with feather trim. Though at times the collection veered into “Grey Gardens” territory — such as a dress of bunched-up red plaid — other pieces were instantly enviable, especially a black shift dress with gold studs and sequins down the front.

At Twinkle, designer Wenlan Chia used a broad color palate and smart, though exaggerated shapes. A pair of black-and-cream trousers were cut extra wide at the leg in a way that was fun without being too much. One loose dress in gray silk featured small, medium, and large fabric medallions: Even with the width at the waist, the dress made the body underneath all the more noticeable. A beautiful blue print chiffon gown was paired with a knit sweater of exaggerated proportions. Though on the runway this dress and others were styled to suggest a depressing dose of homeless chic, the individual pieces combine color, drape, and proportion in a successful, attractive way.

Yigal Azrouël showed one of his best collections yet. He has evolved his success with sexy draped looks into greater variety while maintaining a sense of effortless cool. A wool shift dress in bone and a sheath dress in a tiny blue plaid both looked destined to sell quickly. A varied assortment of textiles present lent the collection a shifting air: sometimes futuristic, sometimes cozy, with a touch of tradition. A black jacket with a metallic sheen and a series of bomber jackets had an aggressive edge. But then the cabled leggings called “alpine pants” looked just right for a cold night.

Among the most creative collections was that of ThreeAsFour, where a fascination with twisted shapes showed up at the ankles of pants and in the hems of dresses. These are dresses for gals who rarely venture above 14th Street, but one gray dress crossed over by giving ’80s drapery a modern edge and a deep V-neck.