Paris à la Mode

PARIS — It’s fashion week in Paris, but in a town where every week is fashion week, what’s the difference? The international caravan that has traveled from New York to London to Milan has now settled here to see what the French designers of ready-to-wear have to offer for next fall. Unlike the splashy, center-of-town show that New York City sets up, fashion week here is spread out and somewhat quieter. It makes itself present most notably in relief against the city’s own style.Outside of a Virgin Megastore, a crowd of 200 French teenagers lined up to have posters and papers signed by a Japanese heavy metal band called Dio. Wearing tight jeans, nearly head-to-toe black ensembles, and deliberate accessories, the fans looked like a younger version of the fashion crowd forming a few blocks away to see Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto’s show. Even though the adults wore less eyeliner and significantly better-tailored clothing, both crowds were infinitely watchable — and the contrast was reminder of the sartorial freedom of adolescence.That sense of creativity, however, was even stronger once the show began. Mr. Yamamoto’s designs both curve into the body and exaggerate its proportions. Sleek leather jackets were precise and flat, while skirts had rolls of fabric at the hips and waist. The mix of materials brought heavy black leathers in to contrast with white leather, black jersey, and flowing chiffon-like wafts of fabric. Oversize jackets and capes were worn with sharp button-down shirts and masculine leather bags for a sophisticated look.Though the color scheme was largely black, a few coats in soft melon colors and one dress in electric blue added some vibrancy. And color seems to be the word of the fall season — as evidenced by collections in New York, Milan, and Paris.“Eventually, all of us are going to have to take the color message seriously,” the vice president and fashion director of Bloomingdale’s, Stephanie Solomon, said.Ms. Solomon pointed to the Christian Dior show earlier in the day as evidence: John Galliano presented a collection inspired by the year 1961 — “before the youthquake” noted creative director of Fashion Group International, Marylou Luther. Tailored suits were shown with monochromatic fabric and accessories. Looks ranged from red to lime to light purple. The solid color notion hit a chord with New York magazine fashion director Harriet Mays Powell, whose recent fashion issue included a spread on New Yorkers who dress in only one color, be it Yves Klein blue or Kelly green.“The theme of the issue was color, and we found people because New York is New York,” she said. “We found more, but we had to edit it down. And of course, we found people who wear all black.”

Paris à la Mode

Paris à la Mode

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