Recycled Goods

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The New York Sun

The spring collections are always something of a disappointment compared with fall, when designers trot out the major trends of the year. But the gap this year feels especially wide, putting fashion observers in a particularly downcast mood.

Fall featured the freshest take on clothes — the silhouette especially — in five years. So perhaps it was natural to expect to be similarly jolted again. Or maybe, no matter what kind of fall we had, this season would be a buzz-kill. There simply isn’t much that’s new this time around. Although there are certainly more designers working now than ever before, a diversity of viewpoints is lacking. Sometimes it’s easy to think they all secretly camp out together somewhere in the backwoods prior to Fashion Week, exchange inspirations and ideas, and then head back to the supposed solitude of their studios to make their designs. How else to explain the uniformity of ideas?

Even Vena Cava’s delightful presentation yesterday afternoon felt like repackaged goods. Evoking a garden party, with a barbecue pit and models clustered into groups like “The Daydreamers,” “The Entomologists,” and “The Picnickers,” the non-runway show was a nice break but it didn’t feel much different from what the label’s young designers, Lisa Maycock and Sophie Buhai, put together six months ago. It was a similar story with the clothes.They were lovely enough — especially a cream fringe shell beneath a navy silk charmeuse schoolboy suit, accessorized with a Cleopatra-like hardware belt — but didn’t seem nearly as inspired as the last collection.

The big idea at Y &Kei was bows, and just about the only thing capable of cutting the frill was the fabulous Louise Brooks–style wigs worn by the all models.There were also some surprising proportion issues, especially in the “double A” silhouette featured in a trapeze jacket paired with a mini pleated-taffeta skirt: Way. Too. Much. Still, there were some very pretty looks for the young Park Avenue set, including a “blueberry” ruffled chiffon and ottoman faille dress; and a hot black and pewter striped sequined shell that certain girls could make very rock ‘n’ roll.

Abaete designer Laura Poretzky has gained something of a following among lithe young things who appreciate how she draws upon her dual Brazilian-Parisian heritage to turn out pleasingly sexy clothes with a wink. But this collection lacked oomph. First there were styling problems that were mainly to do with the shoes. Ms. Poretzky has designed a collection for Payless and she seems particularly fond of the very busy “Brigitte” dress sandal, made from floral fabric and laced up the entire calf. You wouldn’t want to wear these to the airport. Or ever. They cheapen everything they get near.

Secondarily, every look was named for members of the 60s rock ‘n’ roll jetset — Mick, Bianca, Bowie, Hutton, and so on. Those people were such style pioneers that anything named for them needs to be genius in that effortlessly casualsleek manner that each mastered into a highly individual style. These clothes won’t make it all that easy to attain those heights. Old fans dispirited by this review might be reassured by the Bowie tunic, a chocolate satin confection with puff sleeves and jewel-colored sequins.

Milly makes the kind of clothes that fashion people often scoff at — sexy, feminine, easy to wear pieces that appeal to celebrities like Jessica Simpson and Jennifer Aniston. But the fact is, they are adorable and anybody fashionable who spends any time in the Hamptons — or Capri — would do well to have a few of these demure confections in eye-popping colors in their wardrobe. The white cotton filcoupe dot mini dress for day, and lime cotton shift with lacey white sleeves for night would be perfect for a beach holiday. Who knows? You just might see a bunch of designers lolling about when you’re out there.


The New York Sun

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