PARIS – Raffaele Borriello and Julien Desselle, the duo of designers behind the brand Requiem, have brought back the unthinkable: culottes. And in the hands of Requiem, these nearly forgotten pants are hotter than Jerry Hall in August. The legendary supermodel was an inspiration for this collection, one that is long on gold accents, sharp sexiness, and nightlife glamour.

The aforementioned culottes fit right into the mix, believe it or not. With a high waist and a length that hits just below the knee, these wide-leg pants were sleek and demanded notice. Several dresses in the collection had the same attractive quality, but the yellow houndstooth print — in an oversize pattern — was even more surprising than the culottes. A bold statement, the print was a little much on a coat, but kicky when used on a voluminous, pleated miniskirt. A series of skirts came with one long, vertical pleat at the center, which made the fabric pouf out in ways that average gals are unlikely to find flattering. Aside from that, this was a va-va-voom collection for the rocker in every woman.

Though the idea of laid-back luxury may seem like an oxymoron, two collections on Wednesday morning proved otherwise. AndrewGn and Akris are sharply different brands, but they overlap in their commitment to the idea of finery that doesn’t have to shout to be noticed.

The dark, romantic mood of Andrew Gn’s collection offered a combination of exquisite details on dresses, coats, and pants. Embellishments were used in focused, well-measured doses. A black cashmere coat had a neckline and lapel full of handmade rosettes in tulle and satin. Those rosettes reappeared at the high collar of a sleeveless silk tuxedo shirt, which was unbelievably sexy when worn with pants. The collection included far more pants than ever before, which Mr. Gn put down to the need for looks that can go from day to evening. Short jackets and capelets made of multiple types of fur, accented with details such as a patent leather basket weave, topped several ensembles with pants, creating a sense of power. But that was balanced evenly by femininity; his use of jewelry, such as the large cuff bracelets of his own design, gave the looks just enough adornment.

Inspired by Oscar Wilde and the Victorian era, the designer used a dark palette and constructions that suggested romance with a modern twist. A black lace overlay on a coat offered a subtle floral print. Seaming appeared boldly on a dark blue and black bustier. “In the Victorian era, the structure was for supporting the body,” Mr. Gn said, backstage following the show.”This is a combination of soft and structural.”

After pointing out several details on the clothes, the designer noted the combination of ease and luxury — with an emphasis on the latter: “This is one of the most luxurious collections I’ve ever done. This is the lightest cashmere on Earth!”

Pants played a major role in the fall collection at Akris, where designer Albert Kriemler was in top form. The silhouette here was clear and elongated. Sweaters and tunics made of

thin cashmere came down to mid-thigh on slim-cut flannel pants. Cropped jackets emphasized verticality with strips of cashmere at the closure. Ribbed jackets of silk organza worn with turtlenecks and flannel pants had the look of ski resorts where all that matters is what time cocktails will be served.

The collection also incorporated plenty of evening wear and dresses with precision details. Sheer gowns were adorned with rectangular strips of cashmere in perfect order. A matte jersey floor-length dress came with a full, flowing bottom of pleated fabric — and a back that was bare except for two spaghetti straps that connected to the waist.

The show closed on a stunning slate blue dress of pleated silk tulle over a slip underneath.

Almost all the looks were shown with 2-inch-wide suede belts. And though the evening looks added a sense of glamour, the general feeling was one of relaxed confidence. It would not be recognized as “power dressing,” a phrase that connotes suits and big shoulders worn by those climbing the corporate ladder. But it is dressing for women who possess a quiet, calm power that can be communicated efficiently — via cashmere or a glance.

At Costume National, there was a mix of alluring minimalism and futuristic shapes. An emphasis on three-dimensional dressing brought waves and spiral shapes into the collection. Several looks featured layered turtleneck T-shirts under vests or sleeveless tunics. Jackets with wide and textured lapels, or a little cape attached at the back, made for combinations that were chic and unusual. The high-heel booties worn by the models had a rock star sensibility, yet designer Ennio Capasa also showed his green side by incorporating a cashmere-bamboo combination. For years, Mr. Capasa has been experimenting with sustainable materials — bamboo mixed with cashmere is just one part — and with new concepts. He has developed a solar-powered handbag that can charge a phone or an iPod. And his latest sartorial experiments may soon be found at the Costume National store in New York, which is moving to Mercer Street from Wooster Street. “After 10 years, we want to move,” Mr. Capasa told The New York Sun. “It’s a beautiful space, and when we come to New York, we always stay at the Mercer Hotel.”