The Right Fit

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

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NY Sun
NEW YORK SUN CONTRIBUTOR

Someone wise once quipped that clothes make the man, but only if they flatter the wearer. True, indeed. Even the most expensive hand tailored suit from Italy can look like it was rescued from a bargain basement rack if not fitted properly. Consequently, the man with the tape measure draped around his neck who will tailor that new suit is your best friend. Or at least he should be, since he holds your sartorial life in his hands. It’s only common sense that you know how to talk to him.


The suit you bring to a tailor should not need a major overhaul. If a suit has to go through more than a few standard changes, you’re better off scouting for another. But there are nuances of proper fit that you need to know in order to successfully communicate your preferences to the tailor.


THE COLLAR Wear a favorite dress shirt (and dress shoes while we’re at it) at the fitting so that the clothing may be measured against both. Ask your tailor how much height of shirt collar should be showing above the suit’s collar once it is fitted. A trained tailor will make recommendations, but the standard is about 1 /2 inch of shirt collar showing. Ask him also how much sleeve should peek out from the cuffs.


THE JACKET A suit jacket should feel comfortable the minute you try it on. It should follow the natural contour of your body from shoulder to waist, with the collar softly hugging the neck when buttoned. Should the jacket collar pull away from the back of the neck and leave a gap, ask your tailor if he can adjust it.


Proper fit also demands smoothness across the shoulders and back, with no buckling or binding. A slight suppression in the waist, easily achieved by an experienced tailor, will naturally flatter most men as long as it is not exaggerated. A waist that is too tight or fitted will be constricting. It will also cause the jacket skirt to flare out and the back vents to separate, all earmarks of an improperly fitted garment. If you’re not sure about the fit, ask your tailor if he thinks the waist is too tight.


A jacket should fit well over the hips and evenly cover the buttocks, with no hiking or sagging. Be sure the hem extends to about the middle of your thumb when your hands are at your side. In front, the lapels of a well-fitted suit jacket will lie flat and roll or turn over softly.


SUSPENDERS If you prefer to wear braces, not belts, be sure to mention this. It is a good idea to have your tailor let the trousers out one size fuller in the waist to allow them to be comfortably worn higher, about even with or just above the navel.


THE PANTS Be sure to discuss trouser “break,” which is the amount of fabric that rests upon the shoe tops. The best option is either a quarter, or a half break. The shoes you wear most often should be the determining factor: chunkier shoes, or those with a bulbous toe, will require more of a break than narrower shoes such as lace-up oxfords.


On the matter of cuffs, I advise for, rather than against. Correct cuff-width measurement, however, has always been arbitrary, even among tailors. Standard cuffs should measure no less than 1 1/2 inches, although taller men look better with wider cuffs and heavier men look better with cuffs slightly narrower. Like everything else about getting a suit properly fitted, it’s a matter of balance, proportion, and personal preference.


YOUR STYLE The tailoring room is the place to communicate any fitting “quirks” you may want accommodated. Do you wear a bulky diver’s watch on your left or right wrist? Talk to the tailor about having that sleeve let out a bit more to allow the fabric to cover it easily. Carry a thick wallet tin the chest pocket of your suit jacket? Tell the tailor so he can cut that side of the garment with enough room to conceal bulges.


Contrary to popular wisdom, tipping is allowed and often appreciated. So feel free to reward a job well done.


Most of the established men’s clothing stores provide free tailoring and alterations for the life of the garments they sell. But there are a number of independent establishments that offer tailoring, cleaning, repair, and storage services as well. Three of the most reliable tailors include:


ALPIAN’S GARMENT CARE
325 E. 48th St., between First and Second avenues
212-753-7421


In the shadow of the United Nations sits Alpian’s Garment Care, a small, family owned shop that does tailoring and dry-cleaning. “You can’t have one without the other,” owner Aida Alpian, whose family members run three shops in the city and on Long Island, said.


ELEGANZA TAILORS
786 Lexington Ave., suite 2, between 61st and 62nd streets
212-888-4750


Follow the sign that reads “Eleganza Tailors: Fine Alterations for Ladies & Gentlemen” and you’ll find yourself walking up an old, creaky staircase to a spacious shop run by owner Nick Tokov. “I learned everything from my father,” he said. A short and energetic man, Mr. Tokov prides himself on being old-fashioned.


WILFRED’S TAILOR
18 W. 23rd St., fourth floor, between Fifth and Sixth avenues
212-242-3030


The clubby fitting area at Wilfred’s has the feel of an English gent’s dressing room. Retailers, designers, and locals rely on this talented shop. Alterations are a snap, but larger projects are welcome, too.

NY Sun
NEW YORK SUN CONTRIBUTOR

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.


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