KENNETH COLE

Kenneth Cole kicked off New York Fashion Week on Friday with an entertaining public service announcement starring actor Mario Cantone, of “Sex and the City” and the one-man show “Laugh Whore.” In the video, Mr. Cantone spends a day working at a Kenneth Cole store, only to harass customers with unsolicited comments about their bodies and the state of the world – in his trademark obnoxious but hilarious style.

And then things got down to business. Mr. Cole’s 2005 collection for fall was full of sophisticated, clean lines – and a fanny pack thrown in here and there. Colors ranged from dark gray to bone to deep cranberry, though a long jersey dress in electric blue seemed to punctuate the collection at the end.

Trousers took two paths. Some were loose with a low rise, allowing for drapey flow. But there were also tight motor pants with zippers, tapered ankles, and accentuated knees; it was a striking look, but better on the men than the women. Mr. Cole frequently showed sweaters with a draped, rolled V-neck shape; the kind of garment perfect for sitting by the fire. Likewise were the oversized cardigans that were a take-off on smoking jackets. But these thigh-length knits made the models look chubby and over layered, prompting one to imagine what they’d do to the rest of us.

For men, Mr. Cole showed several pieces in a plum color, including one striking sport jacket with detailed seams or paneling. For women, several of the dresses were long-sleeved or high-necked, which didn’t bare much, but they did cut a powerful silhouette.

The highlight was watching Harry Belafonte walk in this show. He only wore one look, but it was enough to make the point that these men’s clothes are for men of many ages. Indeed, this smooth, more refined collection seemed destined for a Kenneth Cole customer who had grown up a bit – been promoted at work, found a new confidence, or just generally decided to look sharper. This collection is not for the cubicle-bound.

ZANG TOI

Peacock feathers, fox stoles, and sequins ruled the runway at Zang Toi, a couture house that specializes in unabashed luxury. Mr. Toi’s use of peacock feathers started with a very mini dress made from a small column of the beaded feathers. They also trimmed a green iridescent silk chiffon gown and filled a large part of the dress’s back panel.

The gold “Oscar” gown served as a play on the statue and the event; the fabric of this column dress was completely covered in tiny gold sequins and trimmed at the neckline in Russian sable.

For ladies who want to make a big impression at lunch, Mr. Toi is handy with suits and luxurious daywear. The cut of his pantsuits is sharp, giving the leg a sexy line, and collars have a huge fur trim. Mr. Toi is one of the few designers who still seems to know where a woman’s waist is. Several of his jackets came belted at the true waist, creating a glamorous line.

While some of the colors in this collection were House of Toi standards – cashmere pieces were luscious in ivory, charcoal, and black – a burgundy and ivory plaid in a wool and mohair blend was a striking addition. Its use was most interesting when combined with delicate fabrics like mink, velvet, or lace.

A full skirt with stripes of mink was shown in several colors, the best of which was purple satin. Delicate embroidery on the inside of a coat, followed by a series of dresses with beautiful irises trailing in the back, were also high marks of the collection. Given all this luxury, it seemed surprising that the show’s makeup sponsor was Maybelline, but when paired with Zang Toi even the drug-store brand looked fabulous.

PERRY ELLIS

It was certainly autumn in this menswear presentation: bright oranges and plucky greens were the dominant colors, though they were too over-the-top for the average guy. A pair of cream corduroy pants were embroidered with trailing vines in what looked like a fabric destined for Lilly Pulitzer. Several velvet blazers were embossed with patterns that were indeed head-turners, but wouldn’t make you do a double take at a party. A pinstriped suit – with stripes of midnight blue – lent the collection a dollop of elegance.

OAKLEY

Known mainly as a sunglasses brand, Oakley ventured into women’s wear for the first time and produced a strong collection. The must-have piece from this show was a long puffy coat with seams accentuating the waist. Shrunken bomber jackets in olive green and hounds tooth cropped jackets were also cleverly executed.

There were some creative casual pieces, including a white cotton skirt with cutouts, layers, and a small design on front. There were ski-worthy snow pants in bright colors like hot pink, and a jumpsuit in a sleek black and white grid design. Sheer, short-sleeve tops seemed out of place with all the sporty pieces, however. On the whole, the collection made for a balance of active and energetic with a dose of sexy, too. As brand extensions go, this was a step in the right direction.

TRACY REESE

Give Tracy Reese your flirty, feminine side, and she’ll dress you to the nines. Ms. Reese has a clear vision of her brand and continues to lead the consumer into tasteful, yet always new territory. Though in the past Ms. Reese has served up a wardrobe that could be worn to work, her newest clothes are better suited to good times.

Heavy on the beading and long necklaces, this collection emphasized embellishment. Skirts were full and wide, whether in pink brocade, art deco floral, or in solid colors with repeated sections of ruching. Evening dresses were flowing, and several featured two contrasting layers at the bodice. The winner was a V-neck tiered slip dress in pink silk chiffon printed with thin red toile and dotted with rhinestone buttons up the back. A colorful floral print on a white background was used for a drop-shoulder dress and for a dolman cardigan that was the picture of relaxed elegance.

The best print in the collection was a wallpaper floral on a blue background – a shade somewhere between deep robin’s egg and turquoise. Used in a tiered dress with thin straps, it made the perfect hostess dress.

Ms. Reese presented several coats in princess cuts; wide, swinging shapes with oversized fur collars or tight buttoned-up ones. There were smaller jackets, too. A standout was the rose chenille brocade with a wide collar shown over a beaded shell and trousers of glen plaid, a fabric that turned up often.